Recommended books and publications: Paris, France and the French

(Updated July 2009)

One can visit Paris for a few days and be impressed with the architecture, ambiance, restaurants, and pleasant hotels. But if, after doing that, you decide you want to return for more — to the city or the countryside — you may find yourself drawn toward two things likely to enhance the richness and meaning of your experience: (1) learning more (or at least some) of the language; and (2) learning about the country’s history and culture. Our language skills are quite poor, and yet we try. Reading about France is much easier. Below we’ve listed a selection of our favorite books. Those marked “►” are especially recommended.

General guidebooks

► The Michelin Green Guide: Separate guides are available for Paris, and for the rest of France: Brittany, Normandy, Northern France and the Paris Region (also know as “ile de France” — the countryside surrounding Paris), Alsace Lorraine / Champagne, Chateaux of the Burgundy/ Jura, French Alps, Auvergne/Rhone Valley, Dordogne/Berry/Limousin, Atlantic Coast, Languedoc/Roussillon/Tarn Gorges, Provence, and “French Riviera.” (www.langenscheidt.com/michelin/travelguides/) Versions of these French guides are often used by the French. The titles listed above have been translated into English, and many also are available in Italian, German, and Spanish, among other languages — and so one benefit of this guide is that you are not immediately identified as an American (or British, or German, etc.) tourist if you are seen with one of these.

Also recommended: The Eyewitness Travel Guides for Paris and various other regions (www.dk.com/travel); Access Paris; and the Cadogan Guides (www.cadoganguides.com/) for the various regions of the country. We have found useful the Rick Steves Paris guide, and we also enjoy the "graffiti wall" of his web site: www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/graffiti_menu.htm. Finally, we recommend a free on-line guidebook, The Traveling Professor's Guide to Paris, found at www.travelingprofessor.com/ParisTravelGuide/tabid/61/Default.aspx (this guide, by Stephen C. Solosky, is "short but sweet," and contains many useful listings, observations, and tips).



Magazines (on line and hard copy)

► France. (www.francemag.com/) This British magazine is published bi-monthly in the United States. It covers France from the special and delightful perspective of a neighbor that has, for centuries, known and loved (and had other, more conflicted feelings for) France.

► Paris Notes. This classy newsletter, published ten times yearly by Mark Eversman, is available electronically only. It comes with access to 50-plus available back copies, making it an invaluable resource. Sign up at parisnotes.com to get a free example of a prior edition. The rest of the Web site, which is free, contains numerous well-written articles, tips, and usefully-categorized links to hundreds of other Paris-related sites (including excellent listings of hotel and apartment Web sites). First-time visitors will especially appreciate an excellent overview, “Paris for Beginners,” http://parisnotes.com/beginner/beginnerparis.html.



Paris Walking, History, and Museum guides

► Little Known Museums in and Around Paris, by Rachel Kaplan.

► Walks Through Lost Paris by Leonard Pitt (“then-and now” pictures and history).

Around and About Paris (vols. 1-3) by Thirza Vallois (comprehensive and somewhat dense historical and architectural treatment of each of the 20 arrondissements).

Paris Then and Now by Peter & Oriel Caine (“then-and now” pictures by the folks that own and run “Paris Walking Tours.” (Hardcover, coffee table book.)

One Thousand Buildings of Paris, by Jorg Brockman, James Driscol & Kathy Borros (a thick compilation of notable Paris structures and a brief history of each, arranged by arrondissement).

Quiet Corners of Paris, by Jean-Christophe Napias. (Just as it sounds — a guide to contemplative places.)

Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Paris, by Jeanne Oliver.

The Secret Gardens of Paris, by Alexandra d’Arnoux & Bruno de Laubadère.

The Quays and Bridges of Paris, An Historical Guide, By Marc Gaillard (well illustrated).


Paris Restaurant and Dining Guides


► Zagat, Paris Restaurants (2008/2009). Very useful.

► Great Eats Paris, by Sandra Gustafson (10th ed. 2004) (we’ve found some of our favorite restaurants in this useful guide).

Food Lover’s Guide to Paris, by Patricia Wells (although last updated in 1999, many descriptions remain apt; includes a nice listing of weekly markets, etc.).

Restaurants of Paris (Knopf, 1994) (this book focuses on décor and history, and includes fine photos; even though dated, it’s still fun and useful).

Gourmet Paris, by Emmanuel Rubin (organized by dish — e.g., where to find the best Charcuterie, Duck confit, Rum Baba, Steak tartar, etc.).

Brasseries de Paris, photographics, Yannis Valmos.

Eating and Drinking in Paris, A Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide, by Andy Herbach and Michael Dillon.

Favorite Bistros of Paris, by Robert & Michele Seass.

The Authentic Bistros of Paris, by Francois Thomazeau & Sylvain Ageorges.

The Historic Restaurants of Paris, by Ellen Williams.

Bistros of Paris, by Robert and Barbnara Hamburger.

Boulangerie! (a pocket guide to Paris's famous bakeries), by Jack Armstrong & Delores Wilson.

The Cafés of Paris . . . a Guide, by Christine Graf.

Paris and France Dining Memoirs, Biographies & Studies, etc.

► Between Meals — An Appetite for Paris, by A.J. Liebling (recollections of Paris dining in the 1930s-1950s).

A Meal Observed, by Andrew Todhunter (a study of the former three-star restaurant, Taillevent).

Burgundy Stars, by William Echikson (the story of a the Michelin three-star restaurant, La Cote d’Or).

Families of the Vine, by Michael S. Sanders (seasons among winemakers in the southwest).

The Invention of the Restaurant (Paris and the Modern Gastronomic Culture), by Rebecca L. Spang (reads like a turgid PhD. thesis — but it’s full of esoteric information for those so inclined).

Remembrance of Things Paris (Sixty Years of Writing From Gourmet), edited by Ruth Reichl.

Paris & France History

► Is Paris Burning?, by Larry Collins & Dominique Lapierre (how Paris escaped detonation at the close of WWII).

► The Road from the Past, by Ina Caro (travel-related history essays).

The Paris Métro: A Ticket to French History, by Susan L. Plotkin (the story behind each of the hundreds of names given to Métro stations).

A Traveller’s History of Paris, by Robert Cole.

A Traveller’s History of France, by Robert Cole.

Paris, The Biography of A City, by Colin Jones (well footnoted and indexed, but some may find it dense).

Seven Ages of Paris, by Alistaire Horne (similar to above).

Paris, The Secret History, by Andrew Hussy (again, similar to above).

Literary Paris: A Guide, by Jessica Powell. (This well illustrated book profiles thirty writers — including Albert Camus, Ernest Hemmingway, Gertrude Stein, George Sand, Janet Flanner, and Emile Zola — and the places in the city integral to their daily lives.)

Métro Stop Paris, An Underground History of the City of Light, by Gregor Dallas. (This book explores history and more by focusing on twelve métro stops.)




French Culture & Society

► Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong, by Jean Benoit Nadeau & Julie Barlow (a sophisticated explanation and critique of French society and ways; the title stems from a Cole Porter musical).

► Savoir Flair! and French or Foe?, both by Polly Platt (easily readable tips on enjoying and understanding France and the French).

When in France, Do as the French Do, by Ross Steele (similar to above).

Paris Inside Out, The Insider’s Handbook to Life in Paris, by David Applefield (loaded with tips, practical and deep).



Paris Memoirs

► Paris, Paris, by David Downie (the author has lived in Paris for 20-plus — this book is beautifully written).

► The Collected Traveler — Paris, by Barrie Keeper (a collection of short stories, detailed practical information, and more).

► Paris to the Moon, by Adam Gopnik (five years of Paris experiences, beautifully written).

► A Movable Feast, by Ernest Hemmingway (a gossipy classic).

► Paris, Traveler’s Tales Guides (a collection of essays).

Into a Paris Quarter, by Diane Johnson (regarding the author’s 6eme apartment and neighborhood).

A Corner in the Marais, by Alex Karmel (regarding the author’s 4th arrondissement and neighborhood).

The Piano Shop on the Left Bank, by Thad Carhart (about what it says, an more).

I’ll Always Have Paris, by Art Buchwald.

The First Time I Saw Paris, Photographs and Memories from the City of Light, by Peter Miller.

Me Talk Pretty One Day, by David Sedaris. (Learning French . . . and more.)
Paris à vue d’oeil, by Henri Cartier-Bresson. (Classic and less known photographs.)

The Flâneur, by Edmund White. (“A stroll through the Paradoxes of Paris.”)

Memoirs of France

► From Here, You Can’t See Paris, by Michael S. Sanders (seasons of a small southwestern village and its restaurant).

► France, Traveler’s Tales Guides (collection of essays).

► France, A Love Story (Women Write About the French Experience), edited by Camille Cusumano (a collection of essays).

► Paris in the Fifties, by Stanley Karnow.

► At Home in France, by Ann Barry (the author’s experiences in the southwest).

The Secret Life of the Seine, by Mort Rosenblum (the story of the river and the author’s floating home, a former barge).

French Dirt, by Richard Goodman (story of a garden, village, and neighbors in the south).

French Impressions (The Adventures of an American Family) by John S. Littell (an American Family in 1950-1951 France).

How to Travel Incognito, by Ludwig Bemelmans (1952, republished 2003) (comic post-WWII travelogue).

“Spotted Dick, S’il Vous Plait,” by Tom Higgins (the story of an English restaurant in Lyon — a British perspective is almost always amusing).

Two Towns in Provence, by M.F.K. Fisher. (A loving study of Aix-en-Provence & Marseille.)

Long Ago in France, by M.F.K. Fisher. (Dijon in the late 1920s/ early 1930s.)

Shopping

The Markets of Paris, by Dixon and Ruthanne Long. (Food, antiques, artisnal crafts, books & more, including dining recommendations.)

The Riches of Paris, A Shopping and Touring Guide, by Maribeth Clemente.

France hotel guides

► The Rough Guide to French Hotels & Restaurants 2005 (le Guide du Routard). Very useful.

► Michelin Charming Places to Stay 2004. Again, very useful.

Hotels and Country Inns of Character and Charm in France, by Michelle Gastaut, Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, Anne Deren, Véroniqie De Andreis, Livia Roubaud, with Jean-Emmanuel Richomme (Fodor’s/ Rivages). Although the essence of this guide (and the following two as well) is now available on line (www.guidesdecharme.com/ ), we still find the hard copy very useful.

Hotels of Character and Charm in Paris, by Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, and Michelle Gassaut, edited by Véroniqie De Andreis (Hunter/ Rivages).

Bed and Breakfasts of Character and Charm in France, by Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, Véroniqie De Andreis, Anne Deren, and Jean-Emmanuel Richomme (Hunter/ Rivages).

Karen Brown’s France, Charming Inns & Itineraries. This book (and its sister, below), updated yearly, lists many places that are not available on the free web version of this guide. (See http://www.karenbrown.com/ )

Karen Brown’s France, Charming Bed & Breakfasts.

Countryside hotels and accomodations

(Updated July 2009)

Useful hotel, B & B and “gite”
web sites for France,

and some recommended hotels

Books

(See the “France hotel guides” section, at the end of our “Recommended books” listing.)

Web sites

We use the following web sites to find hotels, B&Bs, “gites” (short term rental home, typically in the countryside), and restaurants throughout France. Most of our favorite countryside hotels also have restaurants. Just click on the interactive maps on each of these sites, and you will pull up information and often a link to the establishment’s official web site.

viamichelin.co.uk/viamichelin/gbr/tpl/hme/MaHomePage.htm This is our favorite and most useful planning site. (In the “maps” box, enter “France” and a town name, click on the “proximity search” option for Michelin Hotels & Restaurants — and then get easy access to the entire Red Guide, and other guides, for free; also use the directions features to estimate driving times.)

www.tripadvisor.com/ This is our second-most-useful planning site. We often check to see if there are reviews of hotels or restaurants that we have identified, and sometimes we have changed plans based on the reviews we have read.

guidesdecharme.com/fr/index.asp? This site provides links to about 2,000 hotels and B&Bs, and specializes in establishments of special “charm.”

logis-de-france.fr/uk/index.htm This site provides links to about 2,000 mostly countryside hotels and restaurants that specialize on regional cooking.

gites-de-france.com/gites/fr/gites_ruraux This site provides links to many thousands of privately-owned gites; the entire transaction can be done on line.

karenbrown.com/ We have stayed in at least 20 of the recommended places in these guides — there are two guides for France, one for hotels, and the other B&Bs — and the recommendations for both have been consistently very good.

Some countryside places to which we’d like to return (listed by region; number of stars are noted)


Near Paris: Seine-et-Marne, Val d’Oise

Hotel le Prieure (Ermenonville, about 25 minutes east of CDG airport, in the Seine -et-Marne). hotel-leprieure.com
This B & B (***) in Ermenonville is close to CDG, but feels very far away.

Hotel de Londres (Fontainebleau, south of Paris, in the Seine -et-Marne). http://www.hoteldelondres.com/ If you are going to stay in Fountainebleau, you may as well stay at this Napolean III hotel, in a room (like ours, no. 11) that looks out to the Chateau. There is no restaurant at the hotel. On Sunday (the most difficult dining night outside major cities), we booked at Restaurant L’Angélus, in nearby Barbizon -- a 10 minute drive. It was quite nice, with a pleasant atmosphere and fine service. On Monday (also a difficult restaurant night), we dined at Croquembouche, a walk of five minutes from the hotel. (See http://www.restaurant-croquembouche.com/ .) It was excellent -- contemporary French cuisine at its best. (See our full review of Londres at http://www.tripadvisor.com/ .)

La Ramure (Auvers-sur-Oise, where Van Gogh spent his last months, just north of Paris, Val d’Oise). laramure.club.fr/an-accueil.html (Web site is no longer working?)
This is (or was?) a simple, authentic & charming B & B.


Fairly near Paris: Oren (southern Normandy), and Picardie (northeast of Paris)

Villa Fol Avril (Moutiers au Perche, near Mortagne-au-Perche, Alencon, Nogent-le-Rotrou, in the Oren (southern Normandy)). villafolavril.fr/index.htm
This is a delightful and classy inn (***) and restaurant (with a pool) in a tiny village in the little-traveled but beautiful Perche region (see http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/03/25/travel/tmagazine/03well.perche.t.html?pagewanted=1), about two hours west of Paris. (Run by a nice young couple.)

Hotel du Tribunal (Mortagne-au-Perche, near Alencon, in the Oren). http://pagesperso-orange.fr/hotel.du.tribunal.61.normandie/
This simple family-run hotel (**) with a good-value restaurant is located in the center of this nice little hilltop town.

Hotel de L’Abbaye (Longpont, near Soissons, in the Picardie).
This 11- room hotel (**) and restaurant is located in a tiny, beautiful and quiet village about one hour northeast of CDG airport. For description and some photos, enter the hotel or town name on the Logis de France home page: logis-de-france.fr/fr/recherch/index-ca.htm The hotel is not fancy, but very charming, and offers a great demi-pension value (room, breakfast and dinner if you stay 3 nights).


Normandie

Hotel d’Argouges (Bayeux, in Normandie). hotel-dargouges.com/index.php?p=gite&editLangue=UK
A very nice hotel (***) sans restaurant.


Loire Valley / Pays-de-la-Loire

La Croix d’Etain (Grez Neuville, aside the beautiful river Mayenne, near Angers, in the Maine et Loire). anjou-et-loire.com/croix/croiparE.htm
A beautiful and quiet little B & B estate run by a delightful older couple.

Manoir les Minimes (Amboise, in the Indre-et-Loire). manoirlesminimes.com
An elegant mansion (****), sans restaurant.

Domaine de Beausejour (Panzoult, just outside Chinon).

domainedebeausejour.com/en/index.html
This elegant B & B (with a pool) is located in the vineyards and produces its own wine.



Loire-Altantique

Hotel Fort de l’Ocean (Le Croisic, near Nantes, in the Loire-Altantique). hotelfortocean.com
This is a super-dramatic Relais & Chateau establishment (****), with a fine restaurant, on the windy and “wild” coast.


Centre/ Indre

Manoir de Boisvillers (Argenton-sur-Creuse, south of Châteauroux, north of Limoges). www.manoir-de-boisvillers.com/
This hotel (***) is a 18th century manor house, set in a private park with a nice pool. (Reasonable rates; no restaurant.)


Allier (Auvergne)

Château d'Ygrande (near Moulins and Montlucon, northern Auvergne, in the Allier). http://www.chateauygrande.fr/#/fr/intro/
This is an elegant chateau hotel (***) and restaurant with pool, horse riding, and walks through chestnut tree forests. (See our two reviews on http://www.tripadvisor.com/ ) During our most recent stay we visited the Chateau d’Ainay-Le-Vieil (aka “Petit Carcassone”) and toured its amazing interiors and gardens; visited Abbaye de Noirlac (a well-preserved Cistercian Abbey dating from 1150); and visited the Forrest of Tronçais. For lunch dining, we enjoyed, and recommend, Auberge de l’Abbaye de Noirlac (http://aubergeabbayenoirlac.free.fr/ ) and Le Tronçais (http://www.letroncais.com/ ) -- each was “tres agreeable.”


Haute Savoie

Les Roches Fleuries (Cordon, near Chamonix, in the Haute Savoie). rochesfleuries.com/
This is a very impressive chalet (****) with three restaurants.

Coin Savoyard (Combloux, near Chamonix, in the Haute Savoie). http://www.coin-savoyard.com/
A chalet (***) and restaurant, with pool, in a delightful mountain village.

La Vallombreuse (Menthon-St.-Bernard, near Annecy, in the Haute Savoie). la-vallombreuse.com
A dramatic B&B in an old country mansion sitting directly below an even more dramatic castle on lake Annecy.

Le Vieux Logis (Yvoire, on Lake Geneva, in the Haute Savoie). levieuxlogis.com/us/hotel.html
A hotel (***) and restaurant in a charming (but touristy) medieval lakeside village. Some rooms could use updating, but the views are incredible.


Beaujolais

Chez la Rose (Julienas, in the Beaujolais). www.chez-la-rose.fr/en/hotel.html
A hotel (**) and nice restaurant, run by a young couple with plans of expansion and continued improvement (a swimming pool soon?).


Bourgogne

Hotel les deux Ponts (Pierre-Perthuis, near Vezelay, in the Yonne, Bourgogne). lesdeuxponts.free.fr/index.htm
A hotel (**) and restaurant in a tiny village run by a young couple (he is the Chef; she, originally from the Netherlands, runs the hotel).

Château de Messey (Ozenay, near Tournus, in the Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne). www.demessey.com/EN/chateau.htm

This great B & B (a Karen Brown favorite) offers fun and lively “table d’hôte” dining and a nice swimming pool on an ancient estate that produces, bien sur, its own wine.


Gite No. 473 (Hauteroche, near Dijon, in the Cote d’Or, Bourgogne). (Find on this website: gites-de-france.com/gites/fr/gites_ruraux .)

This hamlet is so small, it lacks any commerce – not even a boulangerie. (But a grocery/ bread van serves it daily.)


Alsace, Haut-Rhin


Hotel le Marechal (Colmar, Haut-Rhin). http://www.hotel-le-marechal.com/ This beautiful hotel (****) with a nice restaurant is perfectly located on the romantic canal, from which you can take a boat ride, as in Venice (very nice, but not quite the same).


Hotel Villa Rosa (Trois Epis, near Colmar, in the Haut-Rhin). http://www.villarosa.fr/
This lively and hotel (**), an old family home in the hills above Colmar has a restaurant and pool. (The owner is surprisingly outgoing, and may address the assembled guests during dinner!)

Hotel de la Tour (Ribeauville, in the Haut-Rhin) http://www.hotel-la-tour.com/
This fine establishment (***) and restaurant is located in the middle of this charming town, a major wine producing center.



Franche-Compté/ Doubs

Hotel Talliard (Goumois, on the Swiss border, in the Franche-Compté/ Doubs). http://www.hoteltaillard.com/
This hotel (***) with a charming restaurant and pool sits above a village on the river Doubs, dividing France and Switzerland. Dinner was excellent each night in the main dining room, a classy and elegant site with old oak woodwork and beautiful high windows. (See our full review at www.Tripadvisor.com .) Nearby, we enjoyed visiting and hiking at Saut du Doubs (an impressive waterfall); lunch a few km from the Saut at Restaurant-Bar-Pizzeria Du Port (www.restoduport.com , a local restaurant near Viller-Le-Lac, on the Doubs); and hiking the “Échelles de la Mort” (the ladders of death) -- really they are steep stairs, and not nearly as dangerous as it sounds -- offering a nice view of the valley.

Rhône-Alps (Isère/ Rhône/ Savoie)

Chateau de la Commanderie (Eybens-Grenoble). www.commanderie.fr/
This striking hotel (***) with a fine restaurant and pool is set in a garden-park just outside Grenoble.

La Gabetière (Estrablin, near Vienne, south of Lyon). www.la-gabetiere.com/ukindex.html
This hotel (***) is a 16th century manor house, set in a private park with a nice pool. (Reasonable rates; no restaurant.)

Hotel Million (Albertville, site of the 1992 winter Olympics). www.hotelmillion.com/
This elegant and traditional hotel (***) with a fine restaurant (and a cooking school, 6-day courses) is located in the center of town.

Provence: Vacluse /Alpes-Maritimes/ Alpes de Haute Provence

Auberge du Presbytere (Saignon, near Apt, in the Vacluse). auberge-presbytere.com/saignon.html
This highly regarded “hotel de charm” (**) with restaurant, is located in an ancient hilltop village.

Auberge des Seigneurs (Vence, in the Alpes-Maritimes, near Nice). http://www.auberge-seigneurs.com/home.htm
For more than 80 years this has been a family-run hotel (**) and restaurant in the old town of Vence.

Hostellerie des deux Lions (Forcalquier, south of Sisteron, in the Alpes de Haute Provence). www.provenceweb.fr/04/2_lions/ukindex.htm
This is a simple but pleasant hotel (***) with restaurant in a former 17th century postal building on the center square of a nice little town. Reasonable rates; parking is nearby in an old garage cave.


Midi-Pyrenees/ Averon

Hostellerie de Fontanges (Onet-le-Chateau, just north of Rodez, in the Averon). www.hostellerie-fontanges.com/
This impressive 16th /17th century Chateau on the “route de Conques” has a very nice restaurant and pool.




Dordogne

Hotel de la Madeleine (Sarlat-La-Caneda, in the Dordogne). hoteldelamadeleine-sarlat.com/
This is a stately hotel (***) and restaurant in the center of a beautiful regional town.

Property No. 473 (Urval, near Sarlat-La-Caneda, in the Dordogne). http://www.simply-perigord.com/rentals/view/URV129
A charming house inside a country mansion estate, sleeps 6. (The pool is quite necessary in the hot summer.)

12 (“Une douzaine”) restaurant tips . . . .

(Updated June 2009)

12 (“Une douzaine”) tips on how
not to appear too much like a tourist
in a Paris restaurant. . .
(or least how to be a good one)

The following is a book chapter that we prepared with a Paris friend, Barbara Pasquet-James. We and others have shown this section to French friends, and many have reported back to the effect that “all visitors to France should read this.” That may be a bit much, but here goes:

At the risk of sounding a bit preachy, we’ve set out, like a good plateau of oysters or escargots, a dozen tips and observations collected from numerous sources and from personal experience — tips that will make Parisians more likely to appreciate you, and you them.

First — And especially for dinner: Make a reservation

Making a reservation exhibits respect, and demonstrates that you’re not a typical “just-show-up” tourist. When you don’t reserve by phone (see accompanying box), you might do what we often do: walk around during the day to scope out a place where you’d like to dine. Enter, deliver a solid “bonjour monsieur” (or madame), take a look around, introduce yourselves, and then make a reservation for that evening or the next. As you leave, take the restaurant’s business card, and write the reservation date and time on it. When you later return to the restaurant, you will do so with the authority of someone who at least knows where he or she is going.

[Reserving by phone: If your French is poor, ask your hotel receptionist to reserve for you. More challenging and more fun, if your French is passable, telephone and make the reservation yourself. But don’t be too surprised when, after your carefully planned but bumbling phone request, questions are thrown back at you in a rapid-fire fashion that would confuse even a visiting French tourist from the countryside. Parisians speak quickly.]

Second — Saying “bonjour monsieur” or “bonjour madame” to all restaurant personnel you meet will ease your way considerably

This was mentioned before, and cannot be stressed enough. At first it will feel a bit odd, but as it’s a deeply ingrained social custom, and if you don’t do it, you stand out, and worse, appear to be rude. Don’t hesitate to say “bonjour” 24 hours a day; it translates as “hello,” not “good day.” You can, if you wish, substitute “bonsoir” if it’s after 6:00 p.m. (Do not say “bonne nuit” unless you are in your nightgown and are immediately about to hit the sack.)

[A Theory of Relative Rudeness: The commonly held belief of some tourists — that the French in general, or Parisians in particular, are rude — often stems from the failure to utter the simple greeting, “bonjour” or to observe other similar social customs (such as remembering to use expressions, pardon, excusez-moi, and s’il vous plaît). These expressions are a reflex for the French, and if you fail to do the same you may quite unintentionally trigger a less than cordial response. So, “bonjour” and “s’il vous plaît” your hotel receptionist, bus driver, and ticket taker, as well as your waiter.]

On the whole, the French are formal and polite, but don’t confuse that sing-songy, ubiquitous little “bonjour” as a sign of genuine friendliness. It may be — but more often than not, it’s just part of the expected way of acknowledging the presence of another. So jump in and do the same; give your waiter a healthy “bonjour.” He’ll respond in kind, delivered with a courteous and professional air, and rarely with a smile. The absence of ready smiles must not be taken personally — most local customers don’t receive (or give) them either. The French (except, perhaps, those in the south) ration their smiles carefully. What you are more likely to get from your waiter is good-natured guff. He may test your mettle to see what you can take. Push back in a friendly and confident manner, and you will gain his respect, thus creating an experience that will be all the more enjoyable.

[A waiter is not “garçon”: If, during your meal, you want to attract the waiter’s attention, do so by subtle eye contact, or say “monsieur, s’il vous plaît” as he passes. Despite what you may have seen in old films, or heard from your great-uncle Bob, who was stationed in Paris and recounts many fine restaurant experiences from the 1950s-1960s (probably dives), never call a waiter “garçon” (boy). In France, many waiters are serious professionals. Some locals may get away with “garçon,” but not us, and not you.]

Third — Dress and speak so as not stand out; and don’t gawk (yes, that is a Breton spaniel at the table to your left)

Folks attired in white or swooshy athletic shoes, baseball hats, gaudy tee-shirts, or shorts of any kind are not apt to warm a waiter’s or le patron’s heart, and they will (whether they notice or not) cause local customers to roll their eyes. When in doubt, default to neutral tones, beiges, dark colors, or simple black. Women would do well to learn the French technique of tying a scarf just so, and leave gaudy jewelry in the hotel. You will know that you’ve succeeded in blending in when, on your way to dinner, a Parisian stops you on the street to ask you directions, or for the time — possibly the only two permissible questions to ask strangers in public places, by the way.

[Cameras, guidebooks and cell phones: Hide away your camera and large guidebooks, and avoid using a fanny-pack. (Side benefit: this decreases your chances of being pick pocketed on or near the Métro.) Your cell phone, discreetly placed to the side, on the table, is one accessory that will make you appear Parisian. For better or worse, cell phones are everywhere. But for some non-European travelers it will probably be an empty prop — many U.S. cell phones don’t work in Europe, although that is changing. (We use an international phone with an inexpensive SIM card from http://www.telestial.com/ .)]

Even properly attired patrons draw unsolicited attention to themselves if they use their normal speaking volume. Notice that the pleasant ambient murmur of local voices in a Paris restaurant is considerably lower in volume than in most American restaurants. The French easily achieve privacy and intimacy in crowded restaurants, many of which have very closely placed tables, by speaking softly. Speaking or laughing too loudly is viewed as an intrusion on other patrons’ dining pleasure — and even vulgar.

Although the sight of a dog at the table next to you may trigger an urge to gawk or point, take it in stride. Dogs are welcome in many restaurants and besides, the French love them: there are more canines in Paris than children. The pooch sitting quietly on the society matron’s lap, or snoozing at the foot of a laborer, or poking his nose out discreetly from the tablecloth of the family beside you, is just another family member that goes everywhere they do. The good news: you can assume that at least the dog won’t smoke! (Although one can never be too sure: a well-known brasserie in the 1rst arrondissement, Au Chien qui Fume — “The Dog That Smokes.”) Speaking of smoking — the smoking ban that commenced January 2008 is widely successful and compliance seems to be excellent; but the downside is that it's often smoky outside, at sidewalk and open air tables.

Fourth — Expect to stay a while

A typical restaurant lunch or dinner is three courses: an entrée (that’s a starter, not the main course), a plat principal (main dish), and a dessert. One of the beautiful things about traditional French dining is that it is a leisurely ritual, a time for conversation and reflection, and not just a fueling stop. On top of that, realize that food and dining is a well-known French obsession. Mealtime is often the most important, and enjoyable, part of the day, and the French have no desire to truncate the experience. So count on approximately one and-a-half to two hours for lunch, and two-and-a half to three hours for dinner. (Café or brasserie dining is less structured — see accompanying box.)

[Cafés and brasseries: These less formal establishments are especially handy for off-hours dining. One is not expected to order the traditional three-course menu. A coffee or snack consumed standing at le zinc (a.k.a. le comptoir — the counter) of a café/bar will cost less than if you order the same at an interior table. The cost is highest if your table is in the café’s prime territoire, the terrace. It’s perfectly acceptable to nurse your coffee or beer for hours as you watch the world go by and read your folded Le Monde or International Herald Tribune — or, perhaps less elegantly, as you peruse either on your iPhone.]

Although the dining experience is destined to be leisurely and drawn out, the ordering process is not. The establishment’s carte, listing its offerings, is, by law, posted outside the front door. This provides time to preview the menu and take out your Marling Menu Master in order to translate unfamiliar terms. Parisians usually don’t take a long time to order after being seated — they’ve probably eaten there before, several times, and know exactly what they want — and your waiter may become frustrated if you have to keep asking for “deux minutes, s’il vous plaît.” On the other hand, if you’re really having difficulty (either deciphering the carte, or simply deciding), you can buy time by ordering an apéritif, or some wine.

Fifth — Forge ahead and speak your faulty French, but please, be careful with your hands

More often than not, waiters appreciate the fact that you’re making an effort. Whatever you do, never begin by speaking English first. (The same applies at hotel reception desks and shops.) If necessary, follow your “bonjour” or “bonsoir” with a hopeful look and slightly apologetic, “Parlez-vous anglais?” The answer probably will be “Yes”; if not, the waiter likely will try to fetch someone who does; and if that fails, well, you are in France after all — wing it.

Be careful with sign language. If you attempt to underscore your order of “deux” glasses of vin blanc by the typical American convention of making a “V” with your middle and index fingers, you may well get three glasses instead of two: the French count on their hands starting with the thumb, not with the index finger. So for the sign for “two,” hold up only your thumb and index finger. While on the subject of hands, we advise you to keep them on the table at all times. Do not allow them to slip onto your lap, or anyone else’s. It will be assumed that something well, unsavory, is going on.

Sixth — Order wine and a bottled water, or a carafe of tap water

In 1825, Brillat-Savarin (in La physiologie du goût — The Physiology of Taste), asserted, “Un bon repas favorise la conversation; un bon vin lui donne l’esprit”: A good meal encourages conversation; a good wine makes it spirited. In Paris today, this generally remains as true and guiding a principle as it was 175 years ago.

Normalement, the house rouge or blanc (both widely served by the glass, or in various-sized carafes) is just fine, and usually a bargain. Otherwise, order from the carte de vins (wine list). Except for swish upper range restaurants with extensive caves and sometimes sommeliers (that’s him in the black coat with tails), most restaurants offer a range of bottled wines at prices substantially lower than the often outrageous prices found on most American restaurant lists. Impress your waiter, and benefit your pocketbook, by staying away from the easy selections like Bordeaux (made from cabernet sauvignon and merlot) and white Bourgogne blanc (chardonnay) or rouge (pinot noir, which can be otherworldly, but is much more often expensive and disappointing). Instead, order the lesser-known and more characteristic regional wines. (See accompanying box.)

[Red wines: Try a Chinon or Bourgeuil (made from cabernet franc, in the Loire Valley); a côtes-du-Rhône (made from grenache, syrah, carignon, cinsaut, and mourvèdre, in the southern Rhône valley); a dark and cool Cahors (made from malbec, a.k.a Auxerrois, near the river Lot in the southwest); a Gaillac (made from rare indigenous varietals such as duras and brocol, and other more common varietals such as cabernet franc and merlot, in the southwest’s Tarn département); an appellation-designated Beaujolais (made from gamay, in southern Bourgogne (Burgundy), just above Lyons); or a pleasant and light pinot noir from the Sancerre region.
White and rosé wines: Try a true dry riesling or pinot blanc from Alsace; a chasselas from the high alps of the Haute-Savoie near Lake Geneva; or a Sancerre (made from sauvignon blanc) or bone-dry muscadet (perfect with fresh shellfish), both from the Loire. A dry Bandol rosé from Provence is always a beautiful and reliable choice.]

Bottled waters — eau minérale — present a choice between eau avec gaz (a.k.a. gazeuse, carbonated water) and eau nature (or “sans gaz,” “non-gazeuse,” or plate i.e., “flat” or still water). In the first category, a good choice is the French brand Badoit — its light bubbles go well with food, it’s easy to pronounce (“bad-wah”), and ordering it makes you look like you know what you’re doing. Similar to Badoit, and perhaps a bit finer, is Chateldon, from the Auvergne region. (You may, however, be offered instead an Italian water, San Pelegrino, the gazeuse that’s showing up in many Paris restaurants.) For non-carbonated bottled water, order Vittel, Contrex, or Evian. It’s perfectly acceptable, and safe, alternatively or additionally, to order tap water (eau du robinet), which will come in a carafe (ask for “une carafe d’eau” or if you want it cold, “bien fraîche”). Ice water is rarely served, but if you need it, ask for eau glacée, or glaçons (ice cubes).

Asking for “une bière” gets you bottled beer; requesting “un demi-bière” is tap beer. Neither is traditionally served at dinner, except in brasseries. It is not customary to order a soft or cola drink with dinner, and we advise against it. Such sweet tastes generally do not go well with foods on offer. If a table companion nevertheless orders a Coke, observe your waiter’s expression . . . .

Seventh — Understand the difference between “menu” and “carte”

The carte is the written listing of what the establishment serves. Le menu, by contrast, which may be called the formule, is a combo meal: first course (entrée), second course (plat principal) and sometimes dessert, offered as a package for a set price (le menu fixe), and often the best deal in the house (although the mode now in Paris is a choice between entrée and plat principal or a plat principal and dessert, for one price). So, if you are asked if you want “le menu,” and you answer “yes,” you have just ordered the two or three-course offering of the day! Unless you want to do that, make sure you get, and order from, the carte. (Substitutions are seldom allowed when ordering le menu.)

In nicer places, more than one menu will be offered — there may be a tasting menu (menu de dégustation) or a gourmet menu (menu gastronomique), or both. These menus, designed to show off the chef’s specialties and creative powers, may be more pricey. When dining as a couple, it’s fun to order one regular menu and one of the specialty menus, so as to sample a broader range of the establishment’s offerings.

Eighth — Sit back and let your taste buds be “amused” — and don’t expect salad with, or before, your main course

If you are in an upscale place that has (or has sights on) a Michelin star, you’ll likely be started with a complimentary gift from the kitchen, an amuse-bouche or an amuse-gueule. The former means mouth; the latter, throat. Either way, the term describes a bite-sized savory, a canapé, designed to whet the appetite or “amuse” your mouth, throat, or both.

In lesser places (for us, most of the time), you’ll be quite content with the basket of freshly cut bread, often a baguette, but sometimes a specialty loaf or combination of breads. Beurre (butter) is not commonly served except on request. Often (and always, in a café or brasserie), a strong Dijon mustard will be on the table. If it isn’t, ask for it. A nice dab is meant to be spooned onto the side of the plate to be eaten with meats.

[Salads: If a salade verte (green salad) is desired, order it when you receive your plat principal, and it will be served after completion of that course. (Note that a simple green salad is almost always available, even though not listed on the carte. Just ask for it.) Other, more substantial salads that include meats, cheeses, and nuts, etc., will be listed on the carte, as entrées or as complete meals. Small green salads are served along with quiche, or fish, but only as an accompaniment, not a separate course, and never as a first course.]

Finally, look at the entire experience as an opportunity to be adventurous. The French have learned to make good use of many animal parts that, in other countries, are consumed unknowingly and only in sausages and other lesser forms of tubular foods. Sometimes it’s best not to use a menu translator, and just enjoy what you are offered, knowing that if it’s being served, you can rest assured that millions of Frenchmen have given it their blessing. Sorry Mr. Ed, but we’ve found that cheval (horse), served very rare, is both pleasant and sweet.

[“Doggy bags”: The French love their dogs, but they don’t ask to take home left-over portions of meals, either for their pooches or for themselves. If you ask to pack up part of your meal, you’ll probably cause a scene, and may be told you are not in a take-away establishment.]

Ninth — Did someone say cheese?

Just when you think you’ve done well and have earned your dessert, you learn that, for the real heroes at your table, there’s an optional additional course: le fromage. Some regard this part of the meal as a reward. The cheese cart or plateau (tray) will be brought to your table. “Would you like some regional cheeses?” Although the cart may have twenty offerings, you are expected to select only three, possibly four. Depending on the establishment and your waiter, the portions that will be cut for you after you point out your choices may be enormous or they may be miniscule. Monitor and adjust your order accordingly. At this stage of the meal, we typically order only one serving, which we split between us. Which nicely brings up the subject of splitting meals. The restaurant will let you split cheese and dessert (ask for deux cuillères — two spoons). That’s it. Don’t even think about ordering one meal for two. (The French seem to have an aversion to splitting in general: when the tab arrives, your waiter usually will refuse to make out “separate checks.” Not a happy development for business diners.)

If the cheese that you select is presented to you in a wedge, eat it by cutting along the side of the wedge — don’t chop off the “nose.” More bread will be brought for the cheese course (and sometimes butter as well), but make sure that you have sufficient wine — preferably red — to drink with the cheese. If you’ve miscalculated and have run out of wine at this point, don’t be surprised if a nearby customer intervenes and tells you that you cannot possibly enjoy the cheese without wine. And he will be correct: wine, at this stage, is essential: it cuts the richness of the fromage and, aficionados point out, must be sipped while the cheese is in the mouth. So order another glass, and, as you enjoy your vacherin des bauges, bleu de termignon, or cantal, consider skipping the dessert.

[Fruit course: Sometimes a fresh fruit course (complete with cutlery for peeling, etc.) will be offered after, or in lieu of, the cheese course.]

Tenth — Dessert, and, finally . . . le café

If you’ve taken the cheese course, and now feel that you should pass on dessert, you will be excused. But if you’ve ordered a menu that provides a dessert with your meal, you might as well partake. Standards to look for are babas au rhum (small leavened dough cakes soaked in rum-flavored syrup), crème brulée, various crêpes, and profiteroles au chocolat (small custard-filled cream puffs with chocolate sauce). Keep an eye out for the house chocolate cake — a sinful dark concoction often served with a vanilla-y crème anglaise.

Not until (or in some cases after) the dessert course (or, after the cheese course, if you skip dessert) are you allowed to have coffee. If you ask for coffee before dessert, your waiter likely will hold the order until you have finished the main part of your meal. And even then, if you order the wrong style of coffee for the time of day, your waiter may not bring it at all: cappuccino and other any coffees with milk or cream (like café au lait) are reserved for breakfast or served only in the afternoon. Not only will asking for one after dinner blow your cover, but the creaminess of the coffee will mask and spoil everything that went before.

Whether labeled café, café espresso, or café express, these terms all mean one thing: strong espresso, served in a small saucered cup with a tiny spoon for stirring in sugar. If you want something like “American” coffee, ask for café allongé — and you will be brought a large cup of lighter coffee elongated with water. (The other, less traditional, and more patronizing term for this is “café américan.”) Black coffee is café nature. Coffee with cream is café crème. Decaffeinated coffee is a “déca,” or café sans caféine, and is widely available. In upscale places, chocolate truffles, mini-madeleines or other sweets may appear when the coffee is brought out, and are a complimentary, elegant touch.

[The noisette: If you’re dying for an after-dinner café crème fix no matter what, try a café noisette (simply “une noisette” to locals and those in the know). It’s an espresso served in a small cup with a dash of cream added. Sometimes the cream is served on the side. Those familiar with Spain will instantly recognize it as a café cortado.]

Eleventh — The digestif

After a three hour meal, you may find yourself a bit overly sated. When a waiter overheard us discussing this condition one evening, he advised us to have a digestif, one of France’s most noble inventions. These after-dinner liqueurs — Cognac, Armagnac (brandy), Calvados (made from apples from Normandy), Porto, or an eau-de-vie (various clear fruit spirits), among many others — are said to stimulate digestion. “Oh sure,” we thought, just what we need after a substantial dinner and numerous glasses of wine. But he was right. We don’t do it often but every once-in-a-while, a good digestif is just the ticket.

Twelfth — Pay, tip, and depart in style

In some places, if you don’t ask for the bill (“l’addition, s’il vous plaît”), you may sit there for an hour before it finally arrives. It is considered rude to present the tab without being requested to do so. (In fact, the table will not even be cleared of your empty glasses; to do so would suggest that you should leave.)

When your accounting finally is presented, know that unlike in some countries, (including the United States), where waiters depend on tips, in France, the waiter’s payment for “service” is almost always incorporated into the grand total. (The bottom of the carte will state “service compris” — service included.) Does this mean you shouldn’t tip? Not necessarily. . . . (See accompanying box.)

[Tipping: Most Parisians don’t leave a tip on top of the grand total. Others insist it’s customary — but only pièces jaunes, small change. Still, some guidebooks authoritatively recommend leaving an additional five to ten percent. From our experience, this simply is not done. We take the middle course, and leave a euro or more if the service was good. (Doing so can be — but is not always — in your best interest if there’s a chance you’ll soon return.) If service was exceptional, add a bit more. If you pay by credit card, always provide the tip in cash — but just leave it, don’t hand it to your waiter.]

Finally, if you’ve enjoyed your dining experience, let the waiter and host know, and when you stand to depart, take the restaurant’s business card, shake hands, and say “au revoir” (followed, of course, by “monsieur” or “madame”). If you return within a few days, your follow-up visit may be even better.

If you happen to be staying in a hotel or apartment in the vicinity of the restaurant, you may, as we do, prefer to walk back “home.” The amble aids digestion as we discuss the evening, observe the city at night, and prepare for the next day — when it’s time to start over.

[The long walk home: After a long, late dinner, we find a kinship with the observation of A.J. Liebling, who wrote: “Pedestrianism was always my balance for voracity; they were countervailing joys. Walking, I consumed what I had eaten, built up an appetite for more, had noble thoughts, and spotted likely-looking restaurants.” (Between Meals — An Appetite for Paris (1959).)]

Dinner, lunch and breakfast: Dining in Paris

(Updated July 2009)

Note: In addition to the lists set out below, please see also our separate section: 12 ("Une douzaine") tips on how not to appear too much like a tourist in a Paris restaurant. . . (or least how to be a good one)

Breakfast

If you have an apartment, you may wish to just shop locally for breakfast “in house.” If you stay in a hotel, you can opt for the standard croissant, jam and coffee — but at 8-20€, that’s not a bargain, and can be tiring. Much more interesting than a typical hotel breakfast, and a better deal, is Boulangerie Paul, with numerous locations. (Not to be confused with Restaurant Paul, on Place Dauphine, mentioned in the dinner section below.) Our favorite Paul site is in the 6th arrondissement. People are lined up out the door to buy bread and pastries (always the sign of a fine boulangerie). Paul provides a great breakfast deal that includes fresh orange juice, fried eggs, bread, croissant, and coffee or chocolat chaud (amazingly thick and rich hot chocolate). http://www.paul.fr/index.php
77 rue de Seine (at corner of rue Buci, 6th arrondissement). Métro: Odéon. Tel. 01.55.42.02.23.

Lunch

Brasserie de l’ile St. Louis. This hundred-year old brasserie, overflowing with character, is our favorite “first-lunch-back-in town” place. Usually we slip an omelet, salad, and the house Alsatian riesling. The brasserie’s terrace has a great view of the back of Notre Dame. The Ile St. Louis is a gem to stroll, especially late at night.
55, quai de Bourbon (4th arrondissement). Métro: Pont Marie (or walk from Notre Dame). Tel. 01.43.54.02.59. Open 12:00 noon-2:30 (lunch), 6:30-2:00 (dinner), closed Thurs. lunch, Wed., and Aug.

Other recommended places for lunch or afternoon “tea”:

Florence Finkelsztajn. This traditional Jewish boulangerie and traiteur (deli/caterer) has two shops, only doors away from each other in the charming rue des Rosiers area of the Marais. Florence serves Polish almond babkes, blini, and borscht. If there’s no place to sit, you can take your orders to go, and picnic in the nearby Place des Vosges (see http://paris.org/Monuments/Vosges/).
24 rue des Ècouffes (4th arrondissement). Métro: St.-Paul. Tel. 01.48.87.92.85. Open 10:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m. (lunch), 3:00-7:00 p.m. (tea/early dinner), closed Wed. & Aug.

Mariage Frères. The firm is more than 140 years old, and offers more than three hundred kinds of tea served at lunch, brunch, and in the late afternoon. Tea bags are made by hand, the water is filtered, and tea is removed from the pot after it’s brewed, to avoid stewing. There’s a slightly snooty, albeit très elegante colonial France ambiance in the small dining room, which is decorated with original tea-related posters from 1930s. Numerous menu options are offered, including foie gras, small cut sandwiches on green bread, and salads. Make sure to visit the Musée de thé, up the narrow stairs. http://www.mariagefreres.com/
30-32 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th arrondissement). Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. Tel. 01.42.72.28.11. Open daily 11:30-4:00 (brunch/lunch), 3:00-7:00 (tea).

There are two other similar Mariage Frères locations in the 6th and 8th:

12 rue des Grandes-Augustins (entrance on rue de Savoie) (6th arrondissement). Métro: St.-Michel. Tel. 01.40.51.82.50. Open daily, 11:30-4:00 p.m. (brunch/lunch), 3:00-7:00 p.m. (tea).

260 rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré (8th arrondissement). Métro: Ternes. Tel. 01.46.22.18.54. Open daily 11:30-4:00 p.m. (brunch/lunch), 3:00-7:00 p.m. (tea).

Café Jacquemart-André. This is a beautiful café in a private museum housing a collection of Flemish, Italian Renaissance, and 18th-century French paintings. The café, once a formal dining room, is grandly decorated with tapestries, and a trompe l’oeil ceiling by Giambattista Tiepolo. Enjoy a brunch of smoked salmon, lentil salad, and various tarts.
158 boul. Haussmann (8th arrondissement). Métro: Miromesnil or St. Philippe du Roule. Tel. 01.42.89.04.91. Open daily, 11:30-5:30 p.m.

Ladurée. This is one of the best tearooms in Paris. It was established in 1862. Arrive early and secure one of the two upstairs window seats overlooking the intersection of rue Royal and place de la Madeleine — or, as we did, settle for the middle small banquette table, from which two persons sit side by side looking out over the quaint room. This is also an excellent spot for Sunday brunch — you will notice multigenerational families having a good time out. If you return later at teatime you can try various pastries, superb chocolates, ice creams and sorbets, and almond macaroons or an assortment of four mini-macaroons. Ladurée also is known for its excellent bread, including elegant flûtes. http://www.laduree.fr/
16 rue Royale (8th arrondissement). Métro: Madeleine or Concorde. Tel. 01.42.60.21.79. Open 8:30 a.m.-7:00 p.m., Mon.-Sat. (lunch/ brunch is served 11:30-3:30), Sun. 10:00-7:00 p.m.; closed Aug.

(There are a couple additional Ladurée locations, one in the 6th arrondissement, down the street from the Hotel du Danube.)

Mamie Gateaux. A delightful tea room and lunch location in the 6th arrondissement, usually filled 90 percent with women.

66 rue du Cherche-Midi. Métro: Rennes or Vanneau. Tel. 01.42.22.32.15. (We find this perfect for before or after shopping at Au Bon Marché, a short walk away.)

Dinner

Restaurants, bistros and brasseries: Although Paris has many excellent restaurants serving non-French fare, our list focuses on two main types of French cooking: (1) Restaurants and Bistros, and (2) Brasseries.

What’s the difference between these? More and more, less and less.

A restaurant traditionally is thought of as a full service establishment; a bistro is thought of as being smaller, faster, and less grand than a restaurant. And yet some restaurants are small in scale and scope, and some bistros seem quite grand in both respects. To some extent the difference is a state of mind, and neither is better than the other.

A brasserie is, traditionally, a beer hall, and it usually has a Alsatian connection. Brasseries often offer not only beer, but also white wines based on the Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes, along with a full carte of other wine and spirits. Brasseries are often bright, vibrant, and loud, and they usually open earlier than restaurants and bistros. It is quite easy, and very enjoyable, to have a serious and full dinner at a brasserie, and many are fine places to enjoy large seafood platters on ice. The brasseries that we list below are all traditional ones with stunning décor.

Restaurants and Bistros
(listed by arrondissement; our “top three favorites” are marked “►”)

Restaurant Paul. It feels like the 1940s in this traditional establishment looking out to Place Dauphine, where you are likely to be dining next to lawyers and judges at lunch (the courts are nearby).
15 Place Dauphine (1rst arrondissement). Métro: Pont-Neuf. Tel. 01.43.54.21.48.

Rose de France. This small and welcoming bistro offers sidewalk seating looking out to the quiet and beautiful place Dauphine, near the downstream tip of the ile de la Cite, and far from the noisy tourist crowds. (Also excellent for lunch.) http://www.larosedefrance.com/
24, place Dauphine (1rst arrondissement). Métro: Pont Neuf/ Cite. Tel. 01.43.54.10.12.

Lescure. Although this cramped traditional bistro serves merely good but not great fare, the country ambiance and friendliness of the place (especially if you are seated at the back communal table) and the reasonably prices make it very enjoyable.
7, rue de Mondovi (1rst arrondissement). Métro: Concorde. Tel. 01.42.60.18.91.

Le Soufflé. As the name suggests, this place serves all species of soufflé. Rounding out the carte are numerous non-soufflé items, including beef and fish dishes, and seasonal appetizers such as white asparagus. For dessert, try the tarte fine aux pommes chaudes (a hot apple tart).
36 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st arrondissement). Métro: Concorde or Tuileries. Tel. 01.42.60.27.19. Open 12:00 noon-2:30 (lunch), 7:00-10:30 (dinner), closed Sun. & holidays.

► Au Gourmand. We enjoyed contemporary and inventive dining in a convivial setting. The manager and the waiter were friendly, appropriately chatty and professional, and both spoke perfect English. (See our full review on www.Tripadvisor.com .)

Au Gourmand's Web site: www.augourmand.fr/ .

17, rue Molière (1rst arrondissement). Métro: Pyramides. Tel. 01.42.96.22.19.

Ambassade d’Auvergne. Here you will find hearty Auvergne fare, including of course aligot (potatoes with whipped with cheese and served with flourish). We prefer the cozy downstairs room, at the large table, instead of the more austere upstairs rooms. http://www.ambassade-auvergne.com/
22, rue de Grenier St-Lazare (3rd arrondissement). Métro: Rambuteau. Tel. 01.42.72.31.22.

Le Pamphlet. This is stylish and friendly place for contemporary Basque-inspired dining. (See our full review on www.Tripadvisor.com .) Tips: (1) we were in, and enjoyed, the small room to the left of the door (where there are four tables, seating ten). We soon heard loud America accents emanating from a large table in the main room, which made us glad we were not in there. (2) Although not quite up to that at Le Gaigne (nearby in the 4th), here’s another place with an interesting unisex bathroom and hand-washing area; maybe this is a new trend in trendy Marais restaurants?
38, rue Debelleyme (3rd arrondissement). Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire. Tel. 01.42.72.39.24.

Benoit. Classic Lyonaise bistro cuisine is served in an elegant 1912 setting. Expensive, and when we were there, full of Americans enjoying business dinner tax write-offs. http://www.alain-ducasse.com/
20, rue St-Martin (4th arrondissement). Métro: Chatelet-Les-Halles/Hotel de Ville. Tel. 01.42.72.25.76.

Restaurant Louis Philippe. There is a traditional and cozy, cafe/wine bar on ground floor, with a nice enclosed sidewalk terrace. The restaurant dining room, up the narrow curled iron stairs, offers nice views of the bookinists on the Seine. 66, quai de l’hôtel de ville (4th arrondissement). Métro: Pont Marie. Tel. 01.42.72.29.42.

Mon Vieil Ami. Modern Alsatian cooking in a small room on the beautiful Ile. http://www.mon-vieil-ami.com/
69 rue Saint Louis en l’Ile (4th arrondissement). Métro: Pont-Marie. Tel. 01.40.46.01.35.

► Le Gaigne. Mickaël Gaignon, the young chef with an impressive cooking resume (see the restaurant’s web site), produces edgy and contemporary dishes in this tiny bistro. The titles for each dish are simple -- for example, to start, “Le Petit Pois” turned out to be a chilled sweet pea velouté (a velvety cream sauce made with stock, flour and butter), mackerel tartar and chorizo chips -- wow! We loved this place, and we we are not alone. Soon after we posted a favorable review on http://www.tripadvisor.com/ (check our full review there), Mark Bittman of the New York Times followed our lead(!) and listed it as his favorite of four highlighted "evolving style" bistros. (See http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/07/05/travel/05choice.html?pagewanted=all ) This will make it imporant to reserve for the next few months . . . . Web site: http://restaurantlegaigne.fr/

12, rue Pecquay (4th arrondissement). Métro: Rambuteau. Tel. 01.44.59.96.72.

Le Petit Prince de Paris. This lively bistro on a charming pedestrian street near the Sorbonne stays open very late to serve a mixed gay/straight customer base.
12 rue de Lanneau (5th arrondissement). Métro: Maubert-Mutualite. Tel. 01.43.54.77.26.

► Ribouldingue. Since dining here, we’ve joked about “that awful food” -- but we do so with tongue in cheek. Actually, we devoured offal -- tongue and cheek -- (beef and veal, respectively), as well as lightly sautéed lamb’s brains -- creamy and fantastic! Ribouldingue (we’re told the name translates to “binge”) caters to a certain crowd, but for the less adventurous at your table there are a few non-offal items on the menu, including a fairly regular-sounding fish dish. (See our full review on http://www.tripadvisor.com/.)

10, rue St-Julien le Pauvre (5th arrondissement). Métro: St-Michel. Tel. 01.46.33.98.80.

► Le Languedoc. This is our favorite neighborhood spot, the kind that many tourists may not find. We’ve had diner here many times since 2001. It’s off the track, but worth it. Start with the herring in olive oil. Then try the confit de canard, which must be ordered for two. The Dubois family has run this place for nearly 30 years — you will see mother, father and son (always in a blue shirt), helped by a burgundy-vested waiter who looks like Sidney Greenstreet. 64, Boul. de Port Royale (5th arrondissement). Métro: Le Gobelins. Tel. 01.47.07.24.47. Open 12:00 noon-2:30 (lunch), 7:00-10:30 (dinner), Note: Closed Tues. & Wed.

L’ Epi Dupin. Another hopping bistro. If you don't book the later of the two seatings, you will hear many American accents. http://www.epidupin.com/
11, rue Dupin (6th arrondissement). Métro: Sevres-Babylone. Tel. 01 42 22 64 56.

Le Procope. We found this venerable establishment serving traditional fare, which claims to be Paris’ first restaurant, to be over-the-top touristy. Arguably, it's worth a visit, however, especially if, as with us, someone else is paying. http://www.procope.com/
13, rue de l’Ancienne Comedie (6th arrondissement). Métro: Odeon. Tel. 01.40.46.79.00.

Chez Dumont (Josephine). It feels like old Paris in this classic bistro, and yet, in a nod to modernity, one can order half dishes. 17 rue De Cherche-Midi (6th arrondissement). Métro: Duroc/ Falguiere. Tel. 01.45.48.52.40.

Ze Kitchen Galerie. Stylish, with a price to match. http://www.zekitchengalerie.fr/
4, rue des Grands-Augustins (6th arrondissement). Métro: St.-Michel. Tel. 01.44.32.00.32.

► Allard. Step back to the 1930s. The lamb shoulder, and duck with olives, are signature dishes. Expect many Americans, especially if dining before 8:30. Both rooms are traditional and cozy, but we prefer the smaller “front” room to the left as you enter (in the middle of the kitchen!) http://www.restaurant-allard.com/
41, rue St-Andre-des-Arts (6th arrondissement). Métro: Odeon. Tel. 01.43.26.48.23.

Restaurant Chez Germaine. This is a tiny and simple neighborhood restaurant. There are seven tables, and you may have to/get to share yours with others (who, in this area, seem to include a fair number of Americans residing nearby). The menu includes roast beef, salmon, kidneys in cream, celery rémoulade, eggs with house-made mayonnaise, salt pork with carrots or lentils, beef tongue in tomato sauce (just like Mo’s French grandmother’s), and a great chocolate cake.
30 rue Pierre-Leroux (7th arrondissement). Métro: Vaneau. Tel. 01.42.73.28.34. Open 12:00 noon-2:30 (lunch), 7:00-9:30 (dinner); closed Sat. & Sun. and Aug.

Les Ambassadeurs. Very expensive haute cuisine, but what an elegant room. (As at many super-starred establishments, the lunch menu is a relatively good deal.) http://www.crillon.com/
10, place de la Concorde (in the Hotel de Crillon, 8th arrondissement). Métro: Concorde. Tel. 01.44.71.16.16.

Chartier. This is an impressively large and quite beautiful classic dining hall with rushed waiters serving inexpensive food of good but not great quality. The tab is figured by hand on the paper tablecloth. We agree that it should be experienced at least once (and we will return). http://www.restaurant-chartier.com/
7, rue Faubourg Montmartre (9th arrondissement). Métro: Grandes Boulevards. Tel. 01.48.24.14.68.

Café Panique. After many days of traditional restaurants, bistros and brasseries, we were looking for a clean and slightly edgy change of pace -- and we were not disappointed by this smart and classy neighborhood place in a contemporary art setting. (See our full review on www.Tripadvisor.com .)
Café Panique's Web site: http://www.cafepanique.com/ .

12, rue des Messageries (10th arrondissement). Métro: Poissenniere. Tel. 01.47.70.06.84.

Chez Michel. After reading reviews from various sources, we had high expectations for Chez Michel, but we were slightly disappointed. Part of that had to do with the service, which was a bit too fast for us, although we did not get the impression that they needed or expected to turn our table. Still, it was a friendly and convivial place, and our selections from the Breton-leaning 32 euro menu all were delicious. (See our full review on www.Tripadvisor.com .)

10, rue Belzunce (10th arrondissement). Métro: Poissenniere or Gare du Nord. Tel. 01.44.53.06.20.

Astier. The great prix fixe dinner is one of the best high quality bargains in the city. There is no “menu,” but there are many selections for each course. This crowded place is quite plain, with a 1930s-1950s feel. You will be surrounded by locals and savvy tourists who have read reviews in the New York Times, etc., and are searching for something off the beaten track. After dinner an enormous tray of cheeses is left at your table long enough for you to take three to four ample samples. (But note: On a more recent visit it was not quite as good as before . . . .)
44, rue J.P. Timbaud (11th arrondissement). Métro: Oberkampf or Parmentier. Tel. 01.43.57.16.25. Open 12:00 noon-2:00 (lunch), 8:00-10:15 (dinner), closed Sat. & Sun. & last week of July and all of Aug.

► Le Train Bleu. This is the most impressive train station restaurant we ever expect to see! It’s a sumptuous Belle Époque historic monument with very high ceiling murals depicting the southern destinations of trains that depart from the tracks below and behind the front door of the restaurant. Even if by some accounts the classic fare does not quite measure up, the setting and ambiance is not to be missed. Nor is the baba rhum for dessert (the bottle will be left at your table). http://www.le-train-bleu.com/
Gare de Lyon (12th arrondissement). Métro: Gare de Lyon. Tel. 01.43.43.09.06.

Les Zygomates. This charming Lyonnais bistro, far from the city center in a former 1930s butcher shop, serves classic fare such as foie gras with pine nuts, prawn raviolis, and rascasse (scorpion fish). http://www.leszygomates.fr/
7 rue de Capri (12th arrondissement). Métro: Daumesnil or Michel Bizot. Tel. 01.40.19.93.04. Closed Mon. & Sat (lunch), Sun.

La Cerisaie. A young chef and his wife cook and serve in this tiny and plain place with a southwest influence. Expect foie gras, pork from Gascony, and an excellent variation on “baba au rhum” — made with Armagnac. (Reservations required; if you reserve for an early seating, that is, before 8:30 p.m., you may be surrounded by Americans.)
70, Boul. Edgar-Quinet (14th arrondissement). Métro: Edgar-Quinet or Montparnasse Beinvenüe. Tel. 01.43.20.98.98. Closed weekends and Aug.

Régalade. This is a classic, crowded and cramped bistro. When we departed dinner, tres content, at about 11:30 p.m., there were many lined up and standing over us, waiting for our table.
49 avenue Jean-Moulin (14th arrondissement). Métro: Alesia. Tel . 01.45.45.68.58.

Le Dome. This traditional and expensive seafood restaurant/ brasserie has a clubby atmosphere.
108, boul. du Montparnasse (14th arrondissement). Métro: Vavin. Tel. 01.43.35.25.81.

Bistrot d’Andre. This was the canteen of the former Citroen automobile plant that was located nearby until a few decades ago. The offerings, and the prices, still respect the long-departed local workers’ tastes, and budgets. The two friendly rooms overflow with Citroen mementos. 232, rue St-Charles (15th arrondissement). Métro: Ballard. Tel. 01.45.57.89.14.

Challet des Iles. Getting there is half the fun: one takes a small boat to the island in the middle of this small lake in the Bois de Boulogne. Some complain that the classic French fare is costly and not up to the magical setting, but we loved it nonetheless. http://www.chaletdesiles.net/
Lac Inferieur du Bois de Boulogne (16th arrondissement). Métro: La Muette/ La Pompe. Tel.01.42.88.04.69.

Au Poulbot Gourmet. This versatile neighborhood restaurant run by a woman chef offers two completely different menus: southern (country), and city. 39, rue Lamarck (18th arrondissement). Lamarck Caulaincourt. Tel. 01.46.06.86.00.

La Baignoire. This comfortable and stylish neighborhood restaurant (“the bathtub”) is a close walk from the rue du Square Carpeaux apartment.
151, bis rue Marcadet (18th arrondissement). Métro: Lamarck Caulaincourt. Tel. 01.53.41.63.04.

Le Diapson. Many laud the rooftop alfresco dining (and views) offered May-September, but we enjoyed the stylish street level dining room on a chilly fall evening. Modern and expensive Southwestern fare. http://www.terrass-hotel.com/
12-14, rue Joseph de Maistre (18th arrondissement). Métro: Abbesses/ Place de Clichy. Tel. 01.44.92.34.00.

Brasseries
(listed by arrondissement; our favorite is marked “►”)

Le Vaudeville. This stylish art deco establishment, located near the stock exchange, is part of the “Grope Flo” chain of traditional brasseries, and is noted for its seafood platters. http://www.vaudevilleparis.com/
29, rue Vivienne (2nd arrondissement). Métro: Bourse. Tel. 01.40.20.04.62.

► Bofinger. This bustling and glamorous Belle-Époque brasserie (essentially, a very fancy beer hall) near the Place de la Bastille has been around, in one form or other, for about 150 years. Enjoy platters of oysters or choucroute (Alsatian specials — excellent sauerkraut, sausages and grilled meats), washed down with the house Riesling and good red Rhônes brought by traditionally attired waiters. For dessert, try the crème brûlée made with Bourbon Vanilla. Note: This is not to be confused with the eight or so Le Petit Bofinger restaurants, which are smaller versions of this, the mother ship, located throughout the city. (Ask to be seated under the historic “coupole” — an interior and high stained-glass dome — but it’s a highly prized location, and you’ll have to reserve well in advance, unless you want to arrive around midnight, at which time you will probably be able to secure a seat there.) http://www.bofingerparis.com/
5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th arrondissement). Métro: Bastille. Tel. 01.42.72.87.82. Open daily, 12:00 noon-3:00 (lunch), 6:30-1:00 a.m. (dinner).

Brasserie Balzar. This brasserie, subject of a chapter in Adam Gopnik's Paris to the Moon, seems not to have suffered from transfer to management under the “Groupe Flo.” http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/
49, rue des Ecoles (5th arrondissement). Métro: Cluny La Sorbone/ St-Michel). Tel. 01.43.54.13.67.

Marty. We’d walked past Marty a few times in years past, and we knew that it’s one of the few independent brasseries that has not been overtaken by the Groupe Flo. The airy rooms of this two-storey art deco hall with open staircases are indeed stylish and beautiful. The service, however, was spotty, and some of the items on the shellfish platter struck us perhaps not quite a fresh as we’d hope -- but maybe that’s because it was a Sunday? (See our full review on www.Tripadvisor.com. )

Marty's Web site: http://www.marty-restaurant.com/us/page1.html

20, ave. les Gobelins (5th arrondissement). Métro: Les Gobelins. Tel. 01.43.31.39.51.

Bouillon Racine. The ground floor room of this Belgian-influened brasserie (with great beer) is beautifully mirrored in the art nouveau style. http://www.bouillonracine.com/
3, rue Racine (6th arrondissement). Métro: Cluny La Sorbone/ Odeon). Tel. 01.44.32.15.60.

Brasserie Lipp. Most reviews of this classic brasserie with a political pedigree stress the importance of being seated on the first floor, and not upstairs, in order to see and be seen. From our fine perch on the ground floor (but in the back) we were amused by the wall signs, possibly aimed at American women, advising that a “salad is not a meal.” http://www.brasserie-lipp.fr/
151, boul. St-Germain (6th arrondissement). Métro: St-Germain-des-Pres.) Tel. 01.45.48.53.91.

Brasserie Flo. This classic brasserie, the namesake (if not flagship) of the “Groupe Flo” of historic brasseries (see http://www.flobrasseries.com/brasseries), is located in a not-so-nice neighborhood.
7, cour des Petites-Ecuries (10th arrondissement). Métro: Chateau d’Eau. Tel. 01.47.70.13.59.

Terminus Nord. This classic brasserie, serving a traditional seafood platter among other dishes, is located across the street from the Gare du Nord.
23 rue de Dunkerque (10th arrondissement). Métro: Gare du Nord. Tel. 01.42.85.05.15.

Brasserie Julien. This is another art nouveau masterpiece, now run by the “Groupe Flo.” The neighborhood is not the best, but in a way that’s part of the magic of this place. Find pictures and more at http://www.flobrasseries.com/
16, rue du Faubourg St-Denis (10th arrondissement). Métro: Strasbourg-St-Denis. Tel. 01.47.70.12.06.

La Coupole. This huge, stylish, loud and festive brasserie still has a 1920s feel. Service can range from attentive and professional, to diffident. Great seafood platter; touristy, but fun. www.flobrasseries.com/coupoleparis
102, bd. du Montparnasse (14th arrondissement). Métro: Vavin. Tel. 01.43.20.14.20 102.

Hotels and apartments in Paris

(Updated July 2009)

Our favorite source for Paris hotels is www.guidesdecharme.com/fr/index.asp?lang=EN (click around until you pull up the Paris map listings).

We have stayed at, and generally recommend, the following Paris hotels and apartments:

Hotel St.-Beuve (***) — 6th arrondissement, near the Luxembourg gardens/ boul. Montparnasse. This is a classy place; the least expensive room (in 2006) was 138€ (and that’s a special internet price — the rack price was 160€): hotel-sainte-beuve.fr/

Hotel Familia (**) — 5th arrondissement. This is the next-to-least expensive hotel on our list. It’s quite nice, not at all fancy, but the owners are friendly and have been in the business for many decades. (There are lots of American tourists, however.) Note: The owners have a second hotel (***), right next door — it looks a bit more upscale than the Famalia. hotel-paris-familia.com/

Hotel Leveque (**) — 7th arrondissement. This is similar to the Familia, described above. The Leveque is on a pedestrian food-shopping street (rue Cler) — but again, expect many Americans. hotel-leveque.com/

Hotel de Lutece (***) and the Hotel deux Iles (***) — 4th arrondissement, both on the Ile St. Louis. We love this little island, upstream from the Ile de la Cite, and providing a great view of the backside of Notre Dame. The Ile St. Louis is especially beautiful at night when the crowds leave and the island is bathed in incandescent light. Websites: hotel-ile-saintlouis.com (a shared site for the two hotels) See also, for more photos: http://www.myhotelinparis.com/hotels2/)

Hotel du Danube (***) — 6th arrondissement, near the Seine. This is a nice hotel at very fine location for exploring the St. Germain area. hoteldanube.fr/

Hotel L’Arve (**) — 15th arrondissement, somewhat near the Tour Eiffel, and close to a number of useful Métro lines. This is our least expensive listing. It’s a bit more out of the way. france-hotel-guide.com/h75015avre.htm

The best general resource for Paris apartments is on the Paris Notes Web site: www.parisnotes.com/rentals/parisapartmentrentals.html

We have stayed in five apartments, but recommend only three:

14 rue Francaise (2nd arrondissement). This well appointed studio is located on a pedestrian street near the rue Montorgueil shopping area, making for convenient "at home" breakfasts and lunches. It's generally very quiet, but on warm Friday and Saturday nights you can expect some street noise emanating from a couple nearby night clubs. See photos at rothray.com

9 Rue de Square Carpeaux (18th arrondissement). See photos at http://www.roomwithaparisview.com/ (18th arrondissement). This charming apartment with a "Mary Poppins" rooftop view of Montmartre is near a convenient bus line (and metro stops), and it's not too far from the center of the city, but it feels far away from most tourists. The neighborhood is very enjoyable and real, with fine market streets and local restaurants. (And it's very easy to communicate and make arrangements with the owners, who live in Los Angeles but have a local contact to greet and present keys, etc.)

9 Quai d'Anjou (4th arrondissement, Ile St. Louis). See photos at http://www.parisaddress.com/paris-apartment-rental/qs.php?ref=QANJ9 This 4th floor location (no elevator) in the middle of the river is about as central as one can hope for, making it easy to walk to and from dinner at many left and right bank restaurants. The apartment feels far away from the tourist crowds that parade up and down the main street of the island eating their Berthillon ice cream (http://www.berthillon.fr/ ), and it's very quiet. Entry is through one of those huge and heavy carriage doors, next to a plaque noting that Honore Daumier lived in the building between 1846-1863. The light and airy apartment looks out to a courtyard — for a river view, one would have to pay at least three times the rate charged for this place. Note: the Parisaddress.com web site is very easy to use, and offers more than 200 apartments.

Notes:

The Roth/Ray website offers approximately 10 nice apartments. Ray, who is British, meets you at the apartment, and is quite helpful. Each Roth/Ray apartment comes with a metered phone, making international calls (including to the U.S.) easy and quite inexpensive. But beware of the Rue des Lombards apartment (4th arrondissement) — it’s a beautiful two-bedroom place, and yet as we learned in April 2005, there is a very loud gay Cuban/Brazilian bar directly below that bumps, grinds, and vibrates the 17th century building framing until 2:30 a.m. nightly.

General notes

(Updated July 2009)

Traveling to Paris: From central Europe, we prefer to travel to Paris by train. For schedules throughout Europe, see the German railway site, which provides schedules for all of Europe: www.bahn.de/international/view/en/index.shtml. From the United States, we prefer to fly nonstop on Air France. (www.airfrance.com/indexCOM.html). British Airways (http://www.britishairways.com/) offers better summer prices, but requires a connection in London, adding about four-plus hours to your trip.

When: We like Paris in the spring or fall, but winter can be great as well — the barren trees open views not seen at other times. Summer can be hot, and beware: beginning in early June tourist crowds are thick. In July-August, about one-third of the good Paris restaurants are closed for vacation and general repairs.

Paris guidebooks: We prefer the Michelin Green Guide for Paris. (www.langenscheidt.com/michelin/travelguides/) Carrying it, you don’t immediately stand out as an American (or Brit, or a German, etc.) because Michelin guides also are published in French, Italian, German, and other languages — and so they are frequently seen in the hands of European tourists. The Eyewitness and Access guides also are very good.

Paris Web sites: There are many Paris Web sites, but in our opinion parisnotes.com is the all-around best. It contains numerous well-written articles, tips, and usefully-categorized links to about 500 other Paris-related sites (including excellent listings of hotel and apartment Web sites). First-time visitors will especially appreciate an excellent overview, “Paris for Beginners,” http://parisnotes.com/beginner/beginnerparis.html.

Arrondissements & pocketbook map: Paris is divided into 20 districts — called “arrondissements” — starting with the 1rst, in the center (where the Louvre is located), and circling in the pattern of an escargot shell to the 20th, far from the center. If you stay in the city for more than a few days, you’ll want a map that shows all of the streets, not only the main rues as the free tourist maps do. You can buy a map, in small pocketbook form, at most “Tabacs” or newspaper stands.

Métro tickets, public buses, public bikes, and car rental: Paris is a walking city. But when your feet wear out or it’s just too far, the Métro is great and very easy to use. (See http://www.parisnotes.com/free/metropocket.pdf.) Métro trains arrive at two-minute intervals during rush hour and run until about 1:30 a.m. A few main parts of the bus system run all night.

Purchase Métro tickets at most (underground) Métro stations in groups of 10 — that’s called a “carnet” (pronounced “car-nay”). The price is 11,40 € for 10, which is discounted over the single ticket price. Even at the full rate it’s quite a deal, and reflects a 60 percent public subsidy. The tickets are good for both the Métro and the “RER” (the regional commuter trains), as well as all public buses. Keep the ticket with you — you may be asked to show it by the Métro police, and if you don’t produce, there can be a big fine. If you stay for a week or longer, you can save further by purchasing a weekly or monthly pass, a carte orange, for which you’ll need a passport-size photo.

You see more of the city by using the public bus system (see http://www.parisnotes.com/free/bus.pdf), but although buses often use dedicated lanes they still get bogged down in traffic. And figuring out how to get from point A to B is not quite as easy as with the Métro. But note: Instead of paying at least 25€ for a two-day pass on a private tour bus (with those almost unintelligible recordings in four languages), just hop on a city bus line such as the number 72, which runs from Hotel de Ville in central Paris to the western suburbs. Much of the route is along the Seine and passes many of the major sites.

There are 1,000 “Velib” public bicycle rental stations (the word comes from “velo,” bicycle, and “liberté,” freedom) where you can rent one of 20,000 bikes for very low cost — see http://www.en.velib.paris.fr/ (the site is mostly in French, but it's faily easy enough to figure out; see also http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/10/14/travel/14Journeys.html?ref=travel).

The last thing we want in Paris is a car. But for exploring the countryside, a car is very useful, and often necessary. You will save considerably by booking before you arrive in France. When arranging from the United States, we usually use the services of http://www.gemut.com/ (talk to a real person by calling 800-521-6722), which works with several major agencies to find the best rate. Note: You save on rental fees by picking your car up in or outside the city rather than at the airport; there’s no extra charge for returning the car to the airport.

Walking tours: We have often enjoyed “Paris Walking Tours” — two-hour tours in English, 12€ per person. The schedule for the current and following month can be found at http://www.paris-walks.com/. For most walks you simply meet at a designated Métro stop at a certain time of day (usually 10:30 a.m. or 2:30 p.m.) and join a group of others who show up, with no need to reserve. The operation is run by an English couple, Peter and Oriel Caine, and when they do not conduct tours themselves they employ exceptionally qualified Americans and Brits who have studied art or history or both while living in Paris for many years. (They also have a London Walks site, linked at the Paris web site.) We also have heard good things about “New Paris Tours,” which offers a free 3.5 hour tour (but the guide will expect a tip). See http://www.newparistours.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=27

Museums and passes: Museum passes, good for two, four, or six days, can be purchased at most underground Métro windows. (See http://www.parismuseumpass.com/en/home.php ) Pass holders are permitted to avoid the entry lines and jump in front of all those poor folks queued up to purchase tickets. At some locations, including the Louvre, pass holders are provided a special entry. One of our favorite museums, Carnavalet (in the 4th arrondissement, the Marais), is free. It covers the history of Paris, all in a huge 17th century mansion. For a list and description of the approximately 120 Paris museums (with hyperlinks), see http://parisnotes.com/museums/parismuseums.html

Two of our favorite places in Paris are islands: We enjoy the Ile St. Louis, especially at night — stroll around it, and/or view it from the right or left banks. We also enjoy the Place Dauphine (near the tip of Ile de la Cite). Speaking of the river’s “banks”: the river Seine, of course, bisects the city; the right side of the river’s flow is the “right” bank; the left is the “left.”

ATMs and credit cards: Throughout Europe, one gets the best exchange rate by using ATMs. All U.S.-issued credit cards charge one percent for the foreign currency transaction, and most also add — for no good reason except that they can — another two percent, for a total of three percent on each transaction. So everything you put on the credit card is the opposite of “on sale,” and costs three percent more. Very few credit cards today don’t charge this unnecessary additional two percent. You can ask your credit card company whether they charge the extra two percent, but be sure to speak with a supervisor because most telephone clerks won’t really know the answer. One card that does not charge the extra 2 percent is issued by CapitalOne. (www.capitalone.com/) Travelers checks are unnecessary and a hindrance.

Ubiquitous odd sights — rolled carpet and green plastic: You will see quite strange rolled-up pieces of carpet in the gutters, near the drains at street corners. Contrary to the assumptions of some, these are not left so that strollers may wipe sidewalk dog deposits from their shoes; they are instead used by the “green men” (the garbage collectors and street cleaners) to divert flows of storm drain water in order to flush paper and cigarette butts the gutters. And why are the street garbage receptacles (those bags hanging from hoops) clear green plastic? Because the former and more traditional metal mesh garbage receptacles proved too dangerous when terrorist bombs exploded inside them.

Money saving tips: (1) Be British (or at least avoid some American web sites): If you can book by using a non-American web site you might save substantially. For example, we saved more than $500 on a one-week chateau rental in the Dordogne by booking through a British site (http://www.simply-perigord.com/) instead of an American one for the exact same property, terms and dates. (2) Follow suggestions by Matt Gross, "The Frugal Traveler" ( http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/06/28/travel/28frugalparis.html?8dpc )

Day trips: If staying in a Paris for a week or more, you may want to take a day trip outside the city. In addition to the standard options (for example, the cathedral at Chartres, Louis XIV’s chateau at Versailles, Monet’s garden in Giverny), one of our our favorites is the town of Auvers-sur-Oise, where Vincent Van Gogh spent the last, and very productive, months of his life — and where he lies next to his brother, Theo, about 100 feet from where Vincent painted crows over the wheat fields. (Throughout the town and surrounding fields are reproductions of Vincent’s paintings at, or relating to, the spot depicted; see them at Musee d’Orsay before you travel to Auvers.)

Driving in the countryside/ Maps and GPS: We use both a GPS device (a Garmin 270) and Michelin maps. But note: One cannot rely on the GPS alone. If you don’t study the map first, and orient yourself to the area and surrounding main towns, your GPS (we call ours Madame) may take you, from, let’s say, Roanne to Julienas in the Beaujolais, on extremely narrow one-lane back-country mountain logging roads, at night, in the fog, with no other light or sign of civilization in evidence for 45 minutes of tense white-knuckle and stomach-churning driving, with my wife grimly offering muted sighs and suggestions, while we fully expected the tin man (and flying monkeys) to jump out from behind the black trees and wave us down. And yes, we were quite late to dinner. So, GPS, good. But know your hard copy map as well.