Recommended books and publications: Paris, France and the French

One can visit Paris for a few days and be impressed with the architecture, ambiance, restaurants, and pleasant hotels. But if, after doing that, you decide you want to return for more — to the city or the countryside — you may find yourself drawn toward two things likely to enhance the richness and meaning of your experience: (1) learning more (or at least some) of the language; and (2) learning about the country’s history and culture. Our language skills are quite poor, and yet we try. Reading about France is much easier. In our "General Notes" section, we've listed some of our favorite Paris and France Web sites. Below we’ve listed a selection of our favorite books. Those marked “►” are especially recommended.

General guidebooks

► The Michelin Green Guide: Separate guides are available for Paris, and for the rest of France: Brittany, Normandy, Northern France and the Paris Region (also know as “ile de France” — the countryside surrounding Paris), Alsace Lorraine / Champagne, Chateaux of the Burgundy/ Jura, French Alps, Auvergne/Rhone Valley, Dordogne/Berry/Limousin, Atlantic Coast, Languedoc/Roussillon/Tarn Gorges, Provence, and “French Riviera.” Versions of these French guides are often used by the French. The titles listed above have been translated into English, and many also are available in Italian, German, and Spanish, among other languages — and so one benefit of this guide is that you are not immediately identified as an American (or British, or German, etc.) tourist if you are seen with one of these.

Also recommended: The Eyewitness Travel Guides for Paris and various other regions (including the "Back Roads France" guide -- setting out 24 suggeted driving tours); Access Paris; the Cadogan Guides for the various regions of the country; and An Hour From Paris, by Annabel Simms (descriptions of 20 destinations in the Ile de France). Finally, for first-time visitors, many have found useful the Rick Steves Paris guide, and the on-line guidebook, The Traveling Professor's Guide to Paris, by Stephen C. Solosky (it's short but sweet, and contains many useful listings, observations, and tips).



Magazines (on line and hard copy)

► France. This British magazine is published (by paid subscription) bi-monthly in the United States. It covers France from the special and delightful perspective of a neighbor that has, for centuries, known and loved — and had other, more conflicted feelings for — la belle France.

► France Today. This United States-based magazine is published 11 times yearly, and also is available by paid subscription on line. The free France Today Web site is very useful.

► Paris Notes. We have been sad to learn that this classy newsletter, published (by paid sunscription) ten times yearly by Mark Eversman, has announced that it will cease publication. We assume that the massive amount of free content on the internet is at least partly to blame. Apparently, the Paris Notes site will stay up until September 2010, providing access to 50-plus available back copies. It's unclear what will become of the rest of the site, which has been free, and contains numerous well-written articles, tips, and usefully-categorized links to hundreds of other Paris-related sites (including excellent listings of hotel and apartment Web sites). First-time visitors will especially appreciate an excellent overview, “Paris for Beginners.”



Paris Walking, History, and Museum guides

► Little Known Museums in and Around Paris, by Rachel Kaplan.

► Walks Through Lost Paris by Leonard Pitt (“then-and now” pictures and history).

Around and About Paris (vols. 1-3) by Thirza Vallois (comprehensive and somewhat dense historical and architectural treatment of each of the 20 arrondissements).

Paris Then and Now by Peter & Oriel Caine (“then-and now” pictures by the folks that own and run “Paris Walking Tours.” (Hardcover, coffee table book.)

One Thousand Buildings of Paris, by Jorg Brockman, James Driscol & Kathy Borros (a thick compilation of notable Paris structures and a brief history of each, arranged by arrondissement).

Quiet Corners of Paris, by Jean-Christophe Napias. (Just as it sounds — a guide to contemplative places.)

Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Paris, by Jeanne Oliver.

The Secret Gardens of Paris, by Alexandra d’Arnoux & Bruno de Laubadère.

The Quays and Bridges of Paris, An Historical Guide, By Marc Gaillard (well illustrated).


Paris (and Regional) Restaurant and Dining Guides


► Zagat, Paris Restaurants (2009/2010). Very useful. (As is the current Michelin Guide.)

► Hungry for Paris, by Alexander Lobrano. (2008.) This companionable and well-written guide to "102 of the city's best restaurants" well conveys the personality of each establishment. (Lobrano also provides a useful opening chapter, "The Happy Eater's Almanac: How to have a Perfect Meal in Paris"), covering some of the points we make in our own "12 tips" elsewhere on this site.)

► Great Eats Paris, by Sandra Gustafson (10th ed. 2004) (we’ve found some of our favorite restaurants in this useful guide).

► Food, Wine, Burgundy, by David Downie. This is Downie's latest “Terroir” guide. Roughly the size of a thick Green Guide (450+pages), it’s an opinionated, lively, and beautifully photographed celebration of the small scale wine producers, regional restaurants, bistros, inns, and food shops of the vast Bourgogne — the kind of countryside places we like to patronize. (we've noticed some dining favorites of ours in four of the book’s many recommendations — “Les Deux Ponts” in little Pierre-Perthuis; “Laroche Wine Bar” in Chablis; “Café St. Martin” in Chapaize; and “Le Relais de Flavigny,” in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain — and this makes us trust the rest of the book’s recommendations.)

Food Lover’s Guide to Paris, by Patricia Wells (although last updated in 1999, many descriptions remain apt; includes a nice listing of weekly markets, etc., and a great index of food terms/ translations).

Restaurants of Paris (Knopf, 1994) (this book focuses on décor and history, and includes fine photos; even though dated, it’s still fun and useful).

Gourmet Paris, by Emmanuel Rubin (organized by dish — e.g., where to find the best Charcuterie, Duck confit, Rum Baba, Steak tartar, etc.).

Brasseries de Paris, photographics, Yannis Valmos.

Eating and Drinking in Paris, A Menu Reader and Restaurant Guide, by Andy Herbach and Michael Dillon.

Favorite Bistros of Paris, by Robert & Michele Seass.

The Authentic Bistros of Paris, by Francois Thomazeau & Sylvain Ageorges.

The Historic Restaurants of Paris, by Ellen Williams.

Bistros of Paris, by Robert and Barbara Hamburger.

Boulangerie! (a pocket guide to Paris's famous bakeries), by Jack Armstrong & Delores Wilson.

The Cafés of Paris . . . a Guide, by Christine Graf.

Paris and France Dining Memoirs, Biographies & Studies, etc.

► Between Meals — An Appetite for Paris, by A.J. Liebling (recollections of Paris dining in the 1930s-1950s).

► The Sweet Life in Paris, by David Lebovitz (a well written and offbeat account of "delicious adventures" — cultural, social, and culinary). (See also the excellent blog of the same name.)

A Meal Observed, by Andrew Todhunter (a study of the former three-star restaurant, Taillevent).

Burgundy Stars, by William Echikson (the story of a the Michelin three-star restaurant, La Cote d’Or).

Families of the Vine, by Michael S. Sanders (seasons among winemakers in the southwest).

The Invention of the Restaurant (Paris and the Modern Gastronomic Culture), by Rebecca L. Spang (reads like a turgid PhD. thesis — but it’s full of esoteric information for those so inclined).

Savoring the Past, by Barbara Ketcham Wheaton ("The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789").

Remembrance of Things Paris (Sixty Years of Writing From Gourmet), edited by Ruth Reichl.

Plats du Jour, by William Black ("a journey into the heart of French food" by a gastronome who has traveled the length and breadth of France).

I'll Drink to That, by Rudolph Chelminski (Beaujolais and Georges Deboeuf ).

Adventures on the Wine Route, by Kermit Lynch ("a wine buyer's tour through France").

The Widow Clicquot, by Tilar J. Mazzeo ("The story of a Champagne empire and the woman who ruled it").

The Table Comes First, by Adam Gopnik ("Family, France, and the meaning of food").

Paris & France History

► Is Paris Burning?, by Larry Collins & Dominique Lapierre (how Paris escaped detonation at the close of WWII).

► The Road from the Past, by Ina Caro (travel-related history essays).

► The Greater Journey, by David McCullough (the story of Americans who learned from Paris in the 19th Century).

The Paris Métro: A Ticket to French History, by Susan L. Plotkin (the story behind each of the hundreds of names given to Métro stations).

Americans in Paris: Life and Death under the Nazi Occupation 1940-1944, by Charles Glass.

The Discovery of France, by Graham Robb (a very readable overview explaining "how the modern nation came to be, and how poorly understood that nation still is today").

Parisians -- An Adventure History of Paris, by Graham Robb (focusing on the trus stories of "the lives of the great, the near-great, and the forgotten" of Paris over the past 300 years).

The Last Duel, by Eric Jager (this short and engrossing book, the true story of the last judicially-ordered duel in France, transports you back to Normandy and Paris in the 1380s; it's a fascinating description of medieval society, law, and combat).

A Traveller’s History of Paris, by Robert Cole.

A Traveller’s History of France, by Robert Cole.

Paris, The Biography of A City, by Colin Jones (well footnoted and indexed, but some may find it dense).

Seven Ages of Paris, by Alistaire Horne (similar to above).

Paris, The Secret History, by Andrew Hussy (again, similar to above).

Literary Paris: A Guide, by Jessica Powell. (This well illustrated book profiles thirty writers — including Albert Camus, Ernest Hemmingway, Gertrude Stein, George Sand, Janet Flanner, and Emile Zola — and the places in the city integral to their daily lives.)

Métro Stop Paris, An Underground History of the City of Light, by Gregor Dallas (exploring history and more by focusing on twelve métro stops).

Paris Between the Wars 1919-1939, Art Life & Culture, by Vincent Bouvet and Gerard Durozi (2010; translated from the French original, 2009). Beautifully illustrated.


French Culture & Society

► Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong, by Jean Benoit Nadeau & Julie Barlow (a sophisticated explanation and critique of French society and ways; the title stems from a Cole Porter musical).

► Savoir Flair! and French or Foe?, both by Polly Platt (easily readable tips on enjoying and understanding France and the French).

When in France, Do as the French Do, by Ross Steele (similar to above).

Paris Inside Out, The Insider’s Handbook to Life in Paris, by David Applefield (loaded with tips, practical and deep).

The French, by Theodore Zeldin (originally published in 1982, but still worth rteading today; this is a classic and intelligent review by a well informed Englishman).

Stuff Parisians Like, by Olivier Magny (as the cover says: "Discovering the quoi in je ne sais quoi" — perceptive and quite funny, although sometimes it feels tediously sarcastic).



Paris Memoirs

► Paris, Paris, by David Downie (the author has lived in Paris for 20-plus — this book is beautifully written). See also the related web site, Paris Paris, the book. (For a mystery/ thriller set in Paris, check out Downie's fast-paced Paris, City of Night.)

► The Collected Traveler — Paris, by Barrie Keeper (a collection of short stories, detailed practical information, and more).

► Paris to the Moon, by Adam Gopnik (five years of Paris experiences, beautifully written).

► A Movable Feast, by Ernest Hemmingway (a gossipy classic). Note: a revised version was re-released in July 2009 with some controversial revisions and additions — see this critical Op-Ed analysis in the New York Times).

► Paris, Traveler’s Tales Guides (a collection of essays).

Into a Paris Quarter, by Diane Johnson (regarding the author’s 6eme apartment and neighborhood).

A Corner in the Marais, by Alex Karmel (regarding the author’s 4th arrondissement and neighborhood).

The Piano Shop on the Left Bank, by Thad Carhart (about what it says, an more).

I’ll Always Have Paris, by Art Buchwald.

The First Time I Saw Paris, Photographs and Memories from the City of Light, by Peter Miller.

Me Talk Pretty One Day, by David Sedaris. (Learning French . . . and more.)

Paris à vue d’oeil, by Henri Cartier-Bresson. (Classic and less known photographs.)

The Flâneur, by Edmund White. (“A stroll through the Paradoxes of Paris.”)

Almost French, by Sarah Turnbull. ("Love and a new life in Paris," by an Austranian journalist.)

Paris was Ours, edited by Penelope Rowlands. ("32 writers reflect on the City of Light.")

Memoirs of France

► From Here, You Can’t See Paris, by Michael S. Sanders (seasons of a small southwestern village and its restaurant).

► France, Traveler’s Tales Guides (collection of essays).

► France, A Love Story (Women Write About the French Experience), edited by Camille Cusumano (a collection of essays).

► Paris in the Fifties, by Stanley Karnow.

► At Home in France, by Ann Barry (the author’s experiences in the southwest).

The Secret Life of the Seine, by Mort Rosenblum (the story of the river and the author’s floating home, a former barge).

French Dirt, by Richard Goodman (story of a garden, village, and neighbors in the south).

French Impressions (The Adventures of an American Family) by John S. Littell (an American Family in 1950-1951 France).

How to Travel Incognito, by Ludwig Bemelmans (1952, republished 2003) (comic post-WWII travelogue).

“Spotted Dick, S’il Vous Plait,” by Tom Higgins (the story of an English restaurant in Lyon — a British perspective is almost always amusing).

Two Towns in Provence, by M.F.K. Fisher. (A loving study of Aix-en-Provence & Marseille.)

Long Ago in France, by M.F.K. Fisher. (Dijon in the late 1920s/ early 1930s.)

Suite Française, by Irène Némirovsky. (Life in France in 1940-1941; a controversial story of survival, compromise, and collaboration.)

I'll Never be French (no matter what I do), by Mark Greenside (a New Yorker/ Californian's warm and playful story about falling in love with a tiny Celtic village in Brittany).

The Oysters of Locmariaquer, by Eleanor Clark (this 1965 classic, winner of the National Book Award, is about more than Brittany's famous Belon oysters).

Portraits of France, by Robert Daley ("So and insightful that it immediately goes beyond the genge of travel writing").

Virgile's Vineyard, by Patrick Moon ("A year in the Languedoc wine country").

Arrazat's Aubergines, by Patrick Moon ("Inside a Languedoc Kitchen").

I'll Drink to That, by Rudolph Chelmiski ("Beaujolais and the French peasant to make it 'the world's most popular wine' " -- the story of Georges Duboeuf).

Adventures on the Wine Route, by Kermit Lynch ("A wine buyer's tour of France" -- and the proprietor of one of our favorite wine shops).

Murder mysteries, etc., set in France

Bruno, Chief of Police; The Dark Vineyard; and Black Diamond, all by Martin Walker. (These are exceptionally well done by someone who clearly knows and appreciates the culture of the French countryside, and the Perigord especially. We love Bruno, and look forward to more!)

Shopping

The Markets of Paris, by Dixon and Ruthanne Long. (Food, antiques, artisnal crafts, books & more, including dining recommendations.)

The Riches of Paris, A Shopping and Touring Guide, by Maribeth Clemente.

France hotel guides

► The Rough Guide to French Hotels & Restaurants 2005 (le Guide du Routard). Very useful.

► Michelin Charming Places to Stay 2004. Again, very useful.

Hotels and Country Inns of Character and Charm in France, by Michelle Gastaut, Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, Anne Deren, Véroniqie De Andreis, Livia Roubaud, with Jean-Emmanuel Richomme (Fodor’s/ Rivages). Although the essence of this guide (and the following two as well) is now available on line, we still find the hard copy very useful.

Hotels of Character and Charm in Paris, by Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, and Michelle Gassaut, edited by Véroniqie De Andreis (Hunter/ Rivages).

Bed and Breakfasts of Character and Charm in France, by Jean & Tatiana de Beaumont, Véroniqie De Andreis, Anne Deren, and Jean-Emmanuel Richomme (Hunter/ Rivages).

Karen Brown’s France, Charming Inns & Itineraries. This book (and its sister, below), updated yearly, lists many places that are not available on the free web version of this guide.

Karen Brown’s France, Charming Bed & Breakfasts.

Countryside hotels and restaurants

Recommended countryside (and non-Paris) hotels (50+) and restaurants (100+), listed by region

(and, at the bottom of this post, some useful Web sites for researching hotels and restaurants)

Near Paris — east, south & north: Seine-et-Marne, Val d’Oise

Hotel le Prieure (Ermenonville, about 25 minutes east of CDG airport, in the Seine-et-Marne). This B & B (***) in Ermenonville is close to CDG, but feels very far away. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) For nearby dining (about five or ten minutes walk) we have enjoyed La Table du Poète, a haute cuisine restaurant in a nearby elegant chateau/hotel (and it's open on Monday!) and La Croix d'Or (fine country dining and service).

Hotel de Londres (Fontainebleau, south of Paris, in the Seine-et-Marne). If you are going to stay in Fountainebleau, you may as well stay at this Napoleon III hotel, in a room (like ours, no. 11) that looks out to the Chateau. There is no restaurant at the hotel. On Sunday (the most difficult dining night outside major cities), we booked at Restaurant L’Angélus, in nearby Barbizon — a 10 minute drive. It was quite nice, with a pleasant atmosphere and fine service. On Monday (also a difficult restaurant night), we dined at Croquembouche, a walk of five minutes from the hotel. It was excellent — contemporary French cuisine at its best. (See our full review of Londres at Tripadvisor.)

La Ramure (Auvers-sur-Oise, where Van Gogh spent his last months, just north of Paris, Val d’Oise). This is (or was?) a simple, authentic & charming B & B. Dining nearby is fairly limited on a Monday night (when we were last there), but we enjoyed Le Troubadour, in L'isle Adam.


Fairly near Paris — east and west: Oren & Eure (southern Normandy, west of Paris), and Picardie (northeast of Paris)

Villa Fol Avril (Moutiers au Perche, near Mortagne-au-Perche, Alencon, Nogent-le-Rotrou, in the Oren (southern Normandy)). This is a delightful and classy inn (***) and restaurant (with a pool) in a tiny village in the little-traveled but beautiful Perche region, about two hours west of Paris. (It's run by a nice young couple; see our full review at Tripadvisor.) For lunch nearby in Le Parc natural regional de Perche, we enjoyed the simple and modern Boutique et Espace Gourmand.

Auberge de la Source (8, Place Saint Barthélémy, 77750 Saint Ouen sur Morin, just west of Meaux, in the Seine-et-Marne). We had a nice dinner and stay in this sleepy village one hour from CDG. At lunch fairly nearby we had, among other things, the very best, and only truly enjoyable, an douillette in many tries over the past many years. We were near Troyes, in Sezanne, at Le Relais Champenois, 57 rue Notre-Dame, and it was indeed “Andouillette de Troyes.”

Hotel du Tribunal

(Mortagne-au-Perche, near Alencon, in the Oren). This simple family-run hotel (**) with a good-value restaurant is located in the center of this nice little hilltop town. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) Nearby in Alencon, where pickings were slim on a rainy Monday lunch, we enjoyed grilled meats in what felt like a faux-farmhouse, L'Escargot Dore. On a more interesting day trip to "Suisse Normande," we enjoyed lunch at Hotel Restaurant Au Site Normand, in Clecy. Finally, we must mention the odd town of La Chapelle Montligeon (and its cathedral in the middle of nowhere), where, on a Monday, with everything else closed, at the somewhat shabby Cafe (and Bar) de La Marie, decorated in far-away Provencal yellows but also festooned with strange posters of American Indians, we had a delightful and simple four-course lunch (10 euros each, cheap wine included) along with local workers who barely spoke with each other.

Hotel du Saumon (Verneuil sur Arve, near Dreux, in Eure (southern Normandy). This hotel barely makes it onto our recommended list. The rooms facing the town square are nice enough, and acceptable for a one-night stopover in 1950's fashion (this is especially so regarding the bathrooms), but we can't recommend the hotel's restaurant. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.)

Hotel de L'Abbaye (Longpont, near Soissons, in the Picardie). This 11-room hotel (**) and restaurant is located in a tiny, beautiful and quiet village about one hour northeast of CDG airport. The hotel is not fancy, but very charming, and offers a great demi-pension value (room, breakfast and dinner if you stay 3 nights — see our full review at Tripadvisor). In the general area (within an hour drive), we have enjoyed lunches at Hostellerie le Griffon, in Blerancourt; La Table Kobus, in Epernay; and Auberge du Lion d'Or, in Nanteuil-sur-Marne.


Normandie

Hotel d’Argouges (Bayeux, in Calvados, Basse-Normandie). A very nice hotel (***) sans restaurant; it's been a few years since we were there, but from the Web site it looks even better. For dinner nearby: Le Pommier.

Hotel La Chaîne d’Or (Les Andelys [actually in "Le Petit Andely"], along the Seine, in the Eure, Haute-Normandie). This is a nice riverside hotel (***) and very fine restaurant, run by a helpful and pleasant young couple, Stephanie and Olivier Bicot. Driving between CDG airport and Les Andelys, we had a great lunch at Au Coeur de la Foret, in Montmorency. In nearby Rouen, we enjoyed a rustic lunch at Le Toque d'Or. On the coast in Honfleur, we enjoyed fine seafood on the terrace of La Grenouille.

Hotel de Bretagne (Pontorson, near le Mont-Saint-Michel, in Manche, Basse-Normandie). This is simple hotel (**) with a quite nice restaurant.

Pays de la Loire — Maine et Loire/ Indre-et-LoireLa Croix d’Etain (Grez Neuville, aside the beautiful river Mayenne, near Angers, in the Maine et Loire). A beautiful and quiet little B & B estate run by a delightful older couple. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) For nearby dining (about 15-20 minutes away by car), we enjoyed Auberge de la Diligence (fine country cuisine and service), in Loire; and Chateau de Noirieux (very fancy, haute cuisine), in Briollay.

Manoir les Minimes (Amboise, in the Indre-et-Loire). An elegant mansion (****), sans restaurant. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) For nearby dining we enjoyed Le Pavillon Des Lys (haute cuisine, about five minutes walk from the manoir), and Auberge de Launay (fine country cuisine), about five minutes drive from Amboise, in Limeray Amboise. Farther afield (about 20 minutes drive), we enjoyed more fine county cuisine at Restaurant La Roseraie and Restaurant du Roy, both in Chenonceaux. Finally, near Chateau de Chambord we had a fine lunch at Restaurant Manoir Bel-Air, in Saint-Dye-sur-Loire.

Domaine de Beausejour (Panzoult, just outside Chinon, in the Indre-et-Loire). This elegant B & B (with a pool) is located in the vineyards and produces its own wine. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) For nearby dining (about 5 minutes away by car, in Chinon), we enjoyed Hostellerie Gargantua (in a 15th century building), and Restaurant Les Annees 30. Farther away, while touring the countryside, we enjoyed Restaurant La Tourangelle, in Montlouis-sur-Loire (the best Grand-Marnier soufflé ever!), and La Promenade, in Saint Mathurin.

Loire-Altantique
Hotel Fort de l’Ocean (Le Croisic, near Nantes, in the Loire-Altantique). This is a super-dramatic Relais & Chateau establishment (****), with a fine restaurant, on the windy and “wild” coast. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) For nearby dining (about 15-20 minutes away by car), we enjoyed Le Nezil, in Saint-Lyphard; and fairly nearby, in Nantes, we enjoyed the classic 1900 brasserie, La Cigale.

Centre/ Indre

Manoir de Boisvillers (Argenton-sur-Creuse, south of Châteauroux, north of Limoges). This hotel (***) is an 18th century manor house, set in a private park with a nice pool. (Reasonable rates; no restaurant — but we had a fine dinner on the "agréable terrasse" of the Hotel/Restaurant Le Cheval Noir, an easy walk from the hotel.)


Allier (Auvergne)
Château d'Ygrande (near Moulins and Montlucon, northern Auvergne, in the Allier). This is an elegant chateau hotel (***) and restaurant with pool, horse riding, and walks through chestnut tree forests. (See our two reviews at Tripadvisor.) During our most recent stay we visited the Chateau d’Ainay-Le-Vieil (aka “Petit Carcassone”) and toured its amazing interiors and gardens; visited Abbaye de Noirlac (a well-preserved Cistercian Abbey dating from 1150); and visited the Forrest of Tronçais. For lunch dining, we enjoyed, and recommend, Auberge de l’Abbaye de Noirlac and Le Tronçais — each was “tres agreeable.” On a prior visit we enjoyed lunch at the simple Restaurant Les Trois Puits, in Bourbon l'Archambault; and, about an hour dive from the chateau (in the direction of Roanne), we had a fine lunch at Hotel Restaurant Galland, in Lapalisse.


Haute Savoie

Les Roches Fleuries (Cordon, near Chamonix, in the Haute Savoie). This is a very impressive hotel/chalet (****) with three restaurants. We stopped for a nice lunch about a half hour from Cordon (in the direction of Geneva) at Le Bois du Seigneur, in Les Gets, Morzine. A bit farther in the other direction — just on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc tunnel — we enjoyed lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria La Piazzetta, in Courmayeur.

Coin Savoyard (Combloux, near Chamonix, in the Haute Savoie). A chalet (***) and restaurant, with pool, in a delightful mountain village. On a nearby mountain hike, we enjoyed lunch at La P'tite Ravine, which also serves skiers on the slopes in winter. On a day trip drive to Samoens, we enjoyed lunch at Relais des Vallees, atop the Col de Joux-Plane.

Hotel de Savoie (Annecy, in the Haute Savoie). This little hotel (**), with some rooms more charming than others, is perfectly located in the old town on the canal. We enjoyed dinner in the adjoining restaurant, Auberge de Savoie.

La Vallombreuse (Menthon-St.-Bernard, near Annecy, in the Haute Savoie).
A dramatic B&B in an old country mansion sitting directly below an even more dramatic castle on lake Annecy. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) We enjoyed a nice dinner at the stylish Le Poupeton, less than a ten minute walk away. We also had a good dinner at Hotel Restaurant La Villa des Fleurs, in Talloires — along with lunch at the local hangout, Cafe de La Place, also in Talloires. Note: On our next visit, we plan to dine at the nearby Ferme de la Charbonniere.

Le Vieux Logis (Yvoire, on Lake Geneva, in the Haute Savoie). A hotel (***) and restaurant in a charming (but touristy) medieval lakeside village. Some rooms could use updating, but the views are incredible. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) We had a nice but simple lunch across from the lake at Hotel-Restaurant Le Leman, just outside Saint-Gingolph — about 45 minutes southeast of Yvoire. (And, over the border in Switzerland, across from the incredible Chateau de Chillon, we had a fine lunch at Taverne du Chateau de Chillon, in Veytaux-Montreau.)


Beaujolais

Chez la Rose (Julienas, in the Beaujolais). A nice hotel (**) and restaurant, run by a young couple with plans of expansion and continued improvement (a swimming pool soon?). (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) In the area, we have enjoyed more than one lunch at Le Chiroublon (a simple local gem), in Chiroubles. Also pleasant is La Vieille Auberge d'Oingt, in Le Bourg Oingt; and the simple Restaurant Le Fleurie, near the gare in Villefranche-sur-Saone. Farther away, but "worth the trip" for haute cuisine, is Restaurant Jean Brouilly, about an hour south in Tarare.


Bourgogne

Hotel Clos du Colombier (1 Rue du Colombier, 21630 Pommard, just south of Beaune). This nice (***) hotel is set inside the walls of the Colombier vineyard at the edge of Pommard is run by a husband and wife team, Philippe and Véronique Barthelmebs. Both speak excellent English (she’s a native English speaker). The rooms are comfortable and airy; the village itself is gem — a real working wine town with no glitzy touristy touches to speak of. We walked to dinner at Auprès du Clocher (“Near the Bell-tower”), 1 rue de Nackenheim, in "downtown" Pommard. We still remember the escargot raviolis we had there, and overall, we enjoyed it more than the considerably more expensive dinner at Jardin des Ramparts in Beaune, 10 rue Hôtel-Dieu. For lunch in the heart of Beaune, we enjoyed and would happily return to Le Gourmandin, 8, place Carnot, which also looks to be a promising little hotel if one wants to stay in the city.


Moulin Renaudiots (Chemin du Vieux Moulin, just west of Autun on the D978, in the Saone et Loire). Peter (Danish), a former clothing designer, is a fine cook, and he and Jan (Dutch) are hosts with a great degree of style. Our table d’hote dinner with them (they sat at opposite ends of a beautiful table for 12) stared with Champagne in the garden at 19:30, and the last five of us called it quits after some cognac at about midnight. Unfortunately, the next morning, as we were talking with Peter about the challenges of doing the dinner four times a week, he mentioned that next year they will drop down to two per week — Monday and Friday, I believe he said. Oh well, we also enjoyed Le Chapitre, 11 pl. du Terreau, in Autun. (And after dinner there, the proprietor confirmed our suspicion — that Peter did their interior design.) We stayed in the St Andoche room on the second floor, and having looked at the others, including the two ground floor rooms, this will continue to be our pick when we return, sooner than later, we hope (and including a Monday or Friday).

La Fontaine aux Muses (La Celle Saint-Cyr, 9 km from Joigny in the Yonne, Bourgogne). This charming hotel/restaurant, with a pool, is know for hosting live jazz events.

Hotel les deux Ponts (Pierre-Perthuis, near Vezelay, in the Yonne, Bourgogne). A hotel (**) and fine restaurant in a tiny village run by a young couple — he is the Chef; she, originally from the Netherlands, runs the hotel. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) We enjoyed a nice — albeit quite spartan — lunch of cider, cheese and hot broth by the fire at Ancienne Hostellerie de l'Abbaye XIIeme, in Vezelay, and about an hour away, we enjoyed a great lunch at the stylish Wine Bar Laroche/ Hotel Restaurant du Vieux Moulin, in Chablis.

Château de Messey (Ozenay, near Tournus, in the Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne). This great B & B (a Karen Brown favorite) offers fun and lively “table d’hôte” dining and a nice swimming pool on an ancient estate that produces, bien sur, its own wine. We also enjoyed a great dinner on the terrace of the stylish Le Saint Martin, run by two Swiss fellows, a 10-15 minute drive from the chateau, in Chapaize.

Gite No. 473 (Hauteroche, near Dijon, in the Cote d’Or, Bourgogne). The hamlet in which this country house rental (gite) is located is so small, it lacks any commerce — not even a boulangerie. (But a grocery/ bread van serves it daily.) We enjoyed dinners nearby at Auberge du Cheval Blanc, in Alesia, and Hotel Restaurant Le Relais de Flavigny, in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, and lunch at Restaurant de l'Auxois, in Vandenesse en Auxois. In Dijon — a 40 minute drive — we had a good lunch at Le Spice (international cuisine).

Auberge La Musardiere (Chagny, in the Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne). This is a simple and inexpensive hotel (**) and restaurant; we enjoyed dinner on the shaded tarrasse.

Hotel Restaurant de Bourgogne (Cluny, in the Saône-et-Loire, Bourgogne). This is a nice hotel (***) with a very fine restaurant.

Alsace, Haut-Rhin
Hotel Schwendi (2 Place Schwendi, Kientzheim, near Colmar). We love family run hotel-restaurants in the French countryside, and this certainly is one (three generations are in place here), but despite our stay for four days, and although we loved the Swiss-like feel of the rooms (great down comforters, etc.), we will not return because the establishment and personnel did not exactly exude warmth, our one dinner there was OK, but not memorable, and we were not very impressed with their wines (like some other small places in Alsace, they serve only the wines from their own winery). Our best dining in the general area was, in order of pure enjoyment:

Le Pressoir de Bacchus, 50 route des Vins, 67650 Blienschwiller. (No Web site that I can find.) Fittingly, we were here at harvest time, and we had fun dodging the slender tractor trailers of grapes fresh from the vineyards. As Michelin says, “Regional fare with a hint of originality and a wine list featuring all of the village’s 27 winegrowers” (plus they get a bib). And as the sign outside the door says, “Ni Bistrot, Ni Gastro . . . C’est la cuisine de Sylvie!” We quickly learned to love Sylvie (whom we could glimpse in the kitchen) and her husband (who runs the room), and still think about an amazing mushroom dish. We split a great “mushroom bouillabaisse” dish as a mini entrée for the four of us, and then we ordered one plat each: Ravioli of carp — very nice; pork cheeks — dandy!; the local fish of the day (forgot its name) was super; and one of us got choucroute garni that was so much better than other versions we’ve had (including two days prior at Schwendi) — the choucroute itself was light, thin, and delicate; the meats were high quality, altogether yum. At that end of our lunch, one of our companions said to the husband, “tell your wife she’s good” — to which he responded, with a slightly raised eyebrow, “How do you know”? We want to return to good Sylvie, and the serious and non-touristy village of Blienschwiller. Other nearby dining:

A l’Agneau, Katzenthal. This is a traditional hotel restaurant, and we may stay here on our next visit to this area. It’s a typical-style regional house next to a family-run winery, with two small, pretty, and packed, Alsatian dining rooms.

Le Chambard, Kaysersberg. This hotel/restaurant on the quite touristy main street has a cookbook-author chef and one Michelin star. The carte is surprisingly limited. The options were five savory dishes, from which you order a la carte or as one of two menus: either three plus cheese or dessert, for 80 euros, or all five savories plus dessert(s) and cheese, for about 120(?) or so. We went with the smaller option. The food was very good, but at this price it did not send us, and although we like and want small portions, some of these were surprisingly small indeed, especially the “ombre chevalier” (a deep lake fish similar to trout, we were told), on the carte for about 45 Euros. Local sparking water was charged at 10 Euros per bottle, yikes. We had a very good Riesling (“Schlossberg Grand Cru Cuvee Ste Catherine Colette Faller et ses filles”), and quite decent local pinot (A. Boxler, but expensive for what it was).

Aux Armes de France, Ammerschwihr. This is an “interesting” place. We suddenly needed dinner on a Monday night, when we decided not to dine a second time at our hotel restaurant. The lobby of Aux Armes present a wall of framed newspaper articles from around the western world reporting about how the chef, Philippe Gaertner, “gave up” his Michelin star, in order to cook the way he wants and preserve his restaurant’s economic viability. (Still, Michelin gives him three forks and spoons, and a bib.) And yet, in the curved stairway leading up to the restaurant, there were photos of Gaertner standing among the other 21 or so Michelin “stars of Alsace.”

The room generally looked and felt good to us, and so we reserved for later that night. But during our dinner we were not very pleased, and the feeling came over us that it had lost, or not yet found, its way. Two of us split a house specialty — poulet facon “Francis Staub” for two ” — but it was not very special. The carte offered a simple Weisswurst entre (a chef friend in Munich has instructed us that it is to be eaten only before noon, but anyway), which I happily got and liked (passing on the odd offering of something like “American BBQ’d ribs,” hmmm — maybe his was better than my own, but I doubt it, and I was not in Alsace to have that). The entrecote ordered by another at our table was dry, tough, and apparently lousy as well. I can’t recall the other plat or entrees, but overall, the place just felt tired and searching. Being only half-full on a Monday night probably added to that sense. True to the bib, tho, it was not terribly expensive (210 for four, including two bottles of wine, one sparkling water, two desserts, and a tea).

Other culinary excursions in the general area: In Ampfersbach, near Munster, we returned after a few years to have lunch at Restaurant des Cascades, an end-of the valley place where the wind is sure to kick up at about 14:00, and it did, blowing in a little storm as we watched from the cozy interior. Unfortunately, we could not enjoy the oven-fired tartes flambees, which are offered only at night, but we still like this very local place.

Over the river and border in Freibourg, on a coldish Sunday, we stumbled upon Englers Weinkrugle, Konviktstrasse 12, nicht schlecht at all, and I got to have some schnitzel and a very good beer.

Finally, we have to mention Bernard Antony. When driving from Burgundy (Pommard) to the Colmar area, we detoured for a cheese tasting lunch at the “Sundgauer Käs Kaller,” which we know from trusted friends is the home of “probably the most famous affineur in France.” It was great, and Monsieur Antony, alone with the four of us on a lazy Friday at noon (until his son joined us at the end), was charming, a smile on his face and a twinkle in his eyes, and gamely went along with my bad German and worse French. As I’d arranged with him by email, we opted for the 8-cheese “Assiette de fromages” (he actually gave us 9, and we had two aged demis of Riesling) rather than the daunting “Cérémonie des fromages,” and when we mentioned that we are going to le Chambard that evening, he packaged a special aged cheese to deliver on his behalf. The folks at Chambard later told us they could not figure out what it was and would have to call him. Which may have been Monsieur Antony’s intent, since they are apparently not yet clients. What a great stop that was.

Oh, one more note: We had a great terroirist wine tasting at Marcel Deiss in Bergheim — highly recommended.

Hotel le Marechal (Colmar, in the Haut-Rhin). This beautiful hotel (****) with a nice restaurant is perfectly located on the romantic canal, from which you can take a boat ride, as in Venice (very nice, but not quite the same). Nearby (a 5-10 minute walk), we enjoyed dinner at La Maison des Têtes (great ambiance, but beware, service can be problematic), and Au Fer Rouge (we've heard it's closed? — tant pis).


Hotel Villa Rosa (Trois Epis, near Colmar, in the Haut-Rhin). This lively hotel (**) set in an old family home in the hills above Colmar has a restaurant and pool. (The owner, Anne-Rose, is surprisingly and refreshingly outgoing, and may address the assembled guests during dinner!) We also had fine dinners at La Grangeliere, in Eguisheim, and at Auberge du Brand, in Turckheim; and we had good lunches at Taverne Medieval, in Gueberschwihr, Restaurant des Cascades, near Munster in Stosswihr (where we were driven inside from our terrace table by a dramatic summer storm that blew down the valley), and Maison Zimmer, Winstub Au Tire-Bouchon, in the quaint walled village of Riquewihr.

Hotel de la Tour (Ribeauville, in the Haut-Rhin). This fine establishment (***) and restaurant is located in the middle of this charming town, a major wine producing center. We splurged and also dined at the famous, three-starred Auberge de l'Ill, in Illhaeusern — but this was in the days before the smoking ban of January 2008, and the oblivious people next to us, who puffed constantly for three-plus hours, ruined our dinner. We had a much more enjoyable dinner at Le Auberge du Schoenenbourg, in the beautiful nearby village of Riquewihr, and we had a good dinner at Restaurant du Haut Ribeaupierre, a short walk from Hotel de la Tour.

Hostellerie da Diligence (Obernai, southwest of Strassbourg, in the Bas-Rhin). This is a pleasant little hotel (**) in a pretty town.

Lorraine/ Meurthe-et-Moselle
Maison de Myon (7 rue Mably, Nancy). Take a look at the web site and you will get a small feeling for it. Martine Quenot, the proprietor, is an amazing woman of great taste and apparently boundless energy and enthusiasm, and she is a fine hostess. She offers a table d’hote sometimes — but there are nice restaurants nearby in any event, including, our favorite on our short visit, “la Poule Ange.” We also has a good lunch at Vins et Tartines, 25 bis rue des Ponts, and we pretty much enjoyed dinner at La Maison dans le Parc, 3 r. Ste-Catherine, a very stylish and modern place, but for the first time in the last 12 years of dining in France, the waiter flatly refused the request of one of our party of five for a not-on-the-carte “salade vert” — that was odd and off-putting, especially when we saw from later courses that they must have had the basic greens to do it.


Franche-Compté/ Doubs
Hotel Taillard (Goumois, on the Swiss border, in the Franche-Compté/ Doubs). This fine hotel (***) with a charming restaurant and pool sits above a village on the river Doubs, dividing France and Switzerland. Dinner was excellent each night in the main dining room — a classy and elegant site with old oak woodwork and beautiful high windows. (See our full review at Tripadvisor.) Nearby, we enjoyed visiting and hiking at Saut du Doubs (an impressive waterfall); lunch a few km from the Saut at Restaurant-Bar-Pizzeria Du Port, near Viller-Le-Lac, on the Doubs; and hiking the “Échelles de la Mort” (the ladders of death) — really they are steep stairs, and not nearly as dangerous as it sounds — offering a nice view of the valley.

Rhône-Alps (Isère/ Rhône/ Savoie)
Chateau de la Commanderie (Eybens-Grenoble). This striking hotel (***) with a fine restaurant and pool is set in a garden-park just outside Grenoble. We also enjoyed, for dinner, La Table d'Ernest, in Grenoble.

La Gabetière (Estrablin, near Vienne, south of Lyon). This hotel (***) is a 16th century manor house, set in a private park with a nice pool. (Reasonable rates; no restaurant — and we cannot recommend one, because we happily dined with relatives.)

Hotel Million (Albertville, site of the 1992 winter Olympics). This elegant and traditional hotel (***) with a fine restaurant (and a cooking school, 6-day courses) is located in the center of town. We had a nice, simple lunch at Pub au Bureau.

Provence: Vacluse /Alpes-Maritimes/ Alpes de Haute Provence

Auberge du Presbytere (Saignon, near Apt, in the Vacluse). This highly regarded “hotel de charm” (**) with restaurant, is located in an ancient hilltop village.

Auberge des Seigneurs (Vence, near Nice, in the Alpes-Maritimes). For more than 80 years this has been a family-run hotel (**) and restaurant in the old town of Vence.

Hostellerie des deux Lions (Forcalquier, south of Sisteron, in the Alpes de Haute Provence). This is a simple but pleasant hotel (***) with restaurant in a former 17th century postal building on the center square of a nice little town. Reasonable rates; parking is nearby in an old garage cave.

Mas de Cornud (Saint-Remy de Provence). This cooking school/ B & B (with a pool) is run by an an expat American (David) and his wife (and Chef) Nito. We had a fine dinner nearby at Le Bistro des Alpilles.

Bristol Hotel (Avignon). Why did we stay at the Bristol in Avignon — a "Best Western" hotel (***) with little charm? Because the hotel for which we had booked (Hotel du Palais des Papes) decided that it needed to bump us to make way for another client. Tant pis, the Bristol was not too bad (it was hot outside, and at least it had air conditioning), and a good friend whom we met in town (during the crazy summer festival) took us to dinner at the Restaurant of the Hotel Mirande, and for that we here happy.

Aquitaine/ DordogneHotel de la Madeleine, Sarlat-La-Caneda. This is a stately hotel (***) and restaurant in the center of a beautiful regional town. We also enjoyed, for dinner, La Couleuvrine.

Property No. 473, Urval, near Bergerac and Sarlat-La-Caneda. This charming house inside a country mansion estate sleeps 6. The pool is quite necessary in the hot summer. When not cooking "chez nous," we enjoyed dinner on the terrace of La Salvetat, near Cadouin, up a long and winding road (Route de Belvès), but worth the drive. We also enjoyed lunch at Hotel de la Terrasse, in Salignac en Perigord.

Midi-Pyrenees/ Averon

Hostellerie de Fontanges (Onet-le-Chateau, just north of Rodez, in the Averon). This impressive 16th /17th century Chateau on the “route de Conques” has a very nice restaurant and pool. On a day trip drive though the Gorges du Lot, we enjoyed a nice terrace terrace lunch at Hotel Restaurant Les Deux Vallees, in Entraygues-sur-Truyere, before heading on to Laguiole and then back to the hostellerie.

Midi- Pyrénées / Haute-Garonne

Les Logis de St.-Sernin, 12 rue de St.-Bernard, Toulouse. This is a delightful family-run four-room bed and breakfast (the large variety of house-made preserves was a special treat), perfectly located for strolling around the city. The rooms are generous, bright, and very comfortable. Within a few minutes’ walk, we enjoyed dinners at hopping Restaurant J’Go, 15 Place Victor Hugo (it serves until 23:30, which was useful after our long-strike-delayed flight), and somewhat touristy but very pleasant Emile, 13 pl. St-Georges (the cassoulet lived up to its billing).


Midi- Pyrénées / Ariège

Auberge les Myrtilles, Salau d’en Haut, Couflens-Salau. We were looking for a remote, quiet, and simple pension that served dinner, located at the end of a valley road, and this is it. It may be too remote and simple for some. Very nearby, for lunch we enjoyed Auberge des Deux Rivieres, Pont de la Taule, and would be happy to stay there when next in this area.

Midi- Pyrénées / Hautes-Pyrénées

Hotel le Viscos (***) , 1, rue Lamarque, Saint Savin. We dined here two nights, enjoying first the menu découverte, and then the menu dégustation. Chef Jean-Pierre St. Martin came to the table each night and proudly described each dish in beautifully accented English, and he gave us a kitchen tour and a bottle of local wine when we departed. What a classy and delightful place. Nearby, we had a great lunch beside a roaring cascade at the stylish L’Abre du Benques, in La Raillère, Cauterets. Two hours away, in Saint-Mamet de Luchon (southern Haute-Garonne), we had a nice lunch at Hotel Restaurant La Rencluse.


Aquitaine/ Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Hotel Arcé (***), St. Etienne de Baigorry (near St. Jean Pied de Port). We can’t wait to return to this beautiful and classy riverside hotel with an excellent restaurant. We ate one night in the interior dining room, and one night beside the flowing river, under the pollarded 100-year old plane trees. Nearby for lunch in Bidarray we enjoyed the small terrace at the small and simple, Hotel Restaurant Barberaenea. Two hours away, we hade a nice lunch in Bielle, at L’ayguelade.

Hotel Ithurria (***), Ainhoa. This is, so far, our favorite Hotel/Restaurant in the Basque Pyrénées; we dined here two nights, demi-pension — and when we mentioned to the proprietor that the second night’s main course was similar to what we’d had elsewhere for lunch, he quickly said, “no problem, we’ll change that for you, what would your like?” On the morning we departed, we had a nice tour of the kitchen and the 10,000-bottle wine cellar. Nearby for lunch, we enjoyed Le Kaiku, 17 rue de la République, 64500 Saint Jean de Luz, 05 59 26 13 20; and in the midst of a severe storm, we had a great lunch in Biarritz, at the Rotonde, Hotel du Palais — directly overlooking the raging Gulf of Gascone.

Languedoc-Roussillon/ Pyrénées Orientales

Hotel Madeloc, 24 rue Romain Rolland, Collioure, a nice place with a rooftop pool, is a five minute walk from the touristy center of the town. We had fine dinners at Le 5ème Péché, 18, rue de la Fraternité, tel. 04.68.98.09.76 (French-Japanese fusion by a Japanese chef), and at La Casa Leon, 2 rue Riere (a fresh seafood specialist — we had excellent turbot), tel. 04.68.82.10.74. Note: On our drive from Toulouse to Collioure, we had an excellent seafood lunch near Narbonne, in Bages, at Le Portanel, Passage du Portanel, la Placette, tel. 04 68 42 81 66 (this place is an eel specialist). Farther west, in the direction of Foix, we stopped in Quillan (Aude) to have great wild cèpes and local trout for lunch at Hotel Restaurant Cartier, 31 Boulevard Charles de Gaulle.

Books

(See the “France hotel guides” section, at the end of our “Recommended books” listing.)

Web sites

We use the following web sites to find hotels, B&Bs, “gites” (short term rental home, typically in the countryside), and restaurants throughout France. Most of our favorite countryside hotels also have restaurants. Just click on the interactive maps on each of these sites, and you will pull up information and often a link to the establishment’s official web site.

ViaMichelin. This is our favorite and most useful planning site — although some "improvements" have made it more difficult to use. (In the “maps” box, enter “France” and a town name, click on the “proximity search” option for Michelin Hotels & Restaurants — and then get easy access to the entire Red Guide, and other guides, for free; also use the directions features to estimate driving times.)

Tripadvisor. This is our second-most-useful planning site. We often check to see if there are reviews of hotels or restaurants that we have identified, and sometimes we have changed plans based on the reviews we have read.

Guides de Charme. This site provides links to about 2,000 hotels and B&Bs, and specializes in establishments of special “charm.”

Logis de France. This site provides links to about 2,000 mostly countryside hotels and restaurants that specialize on regional cooking.

Gites de France. This site provides links to many thousands of privately-owned gites; the entire transaction can be done on line.

Karen Brown. We have stayed in at least 20 of the recommended places in these guides — there are two guides for France, one for hotels, and the other B&Bs — and the recommendations for both have been consistently very good.

Chowhound (France forum) and EGullet Society (France dining page). These are both excellent sources for dining recommendations offered by serious eaters — covering Paris, and beyond, in France (and, indeed, the rest of the fine dining world).

12 (“Une douzaine”) restaurant tips . . .

on how to blend in and
not to appear too much like a tourist
in a Paris restaurant . . .
(or at least how to be a good one)

The following is based on a book chapter that we prepared back in 2002-2003 with a Paris friend, Barbara Pasquet-James, and continually updated since then. (The book was designed to list non-smoking restaurants in Paris; it was going to be a thin book. But then the national smoking ban went into effect in 2008, happily making such lists obsolete.) We and others have shown this section to French friends, and many have reported back to the effect that “all visitors to France should read this.” That may be a bit much, but here goes:

We are tourists when we visit Paris/ France, and we don't pretend otherwise. But, like most other tourists, we try to respect the local culture, and not stand out too much. At the risk of sounding a bit preachy, we’ve set out, like a good plateau of oysters or escargots, a dozen tips and observations collected from numerous sources and from personal experience — tips that may make Parisians more likely to appreciate you, and you them.

First — And especially for dinner in a restaurant or serious bistro: Make a reservation

Reservations are not necessary (or even customary) for cafés, or for many brasseries (except at peak hours), but may be necessary for many “serious” restaurants and bistros. Moreover, making a reservation exhibits respect, and ensures that you won't be disappointed if your chosen restaurant or bistro is overbooked. When you don’t reserve by phone (see accompanying box), you might do what we often do: walk around during the day to scope out a place where you’d like to dine. Enter, deliver a solid “bonjour monsieur” (or madame), take a look around, shake hands/ introduce yourselves, and then make a reservation for that evening or the next. As you leave, take the restaurant’s business card, and write the reservation date and time on it. When you later return to the restaurant, you will do so with the authority of someone who at least knows where he or she is going.

[Reserving by phone: If your French is poor, ask your hotel receptionist to reserve for you. More challenging and more fun, if your French is passable, telephone and make the reservation yourself. But don’t be too surprised when, after your carefully planned but bumbling phone request, questions are thrown back at you in a rapid-fire fashion that would confuse even a visiting French tourist from the countryside. Parisians speak quickly.]

Second — Saying “bonjour monsieur” or “bonjour madame” to all restaurant personnel you meet will ease your way considerably

This was mentioned before, and cannot be stressed enough. At first it may feel a bit odd, but it’s a deeply ingrained social custom, and if you don’t do it, you stand out, and worse, appear to be rude. Don’t hesitate to say “bonjour” 24 hours a day; it translates as “hello,” not “good day.” You can, if you wish, substitute “bonsoir” if it’s after 6:00 p.m. (Do not say “bonne nuit” unless you are in your nightgown and are immediately about to hit the sack.)

[A Theory of Relative Rudeness: The commonly held belief of some tourists — that the French in general, or Parisians in particular, are rude — often stems from the failure to utter the simple greeting, “bonjour madam/ monsieur” or to observe other similar social customs (such as remembering to use the expressions, pardon, excusez-moi, and s’il vous plaît). These utterances are a reflex for the French, and if you fail to do the same you may quite unintentionally trigger a less than cordial response. So, “bonjour” and “s’il vous plaît” your hotel receptionist, bus driver, and ticket taker, as well as your waiter. And please make sure to include the word “monsieur” or “madame” after your bonjours and other similar expressions.]

On the whole, the French are formal and polite, but don’t confuse that sing-songy, ubiquitous little “bonjour” as a sign of genuine friendliness. It may be — but more often than not, it’s just part of the expected way of acknowledging the presence of another. So jump in and do the same; give your waiter a healthy “bonjour.” He’ll respond in kind, delivered with a courteous and professional air, and rarely with a smile. The absence of ready smiles must not be taken personally — most local customers don’t receive (or give) them either. The French (except, perhaps, those in the south) ration their smiles carefully. What you are more likely to get from your waiter is good-natured guff. He may test your mettle to see what you can take. Push back in a friendly and confident manner, and you will gain his respect, thus creating an experience that will be all the more enjoyable.

[A waiter is not “garçon”: If, during your meal, you want to attract the waiter’s attention, do so by subtle eye contact, or say “monsieur, s’il vous plaît” as he passes. Despite what you may have seen in old films, or heard from your great-uncle Bob, who was stationed in Paris and recounts many fine restaurant experiences from the 1950s-1960s (probably dives), never call a waiter “garçon” (boy). In France, many waiters are serious professionals. Some locals may get away with “garçon,” but not us, and not you.]

Third — Dress and speak so as not stand out; and don’t gawk (yes, that is a Breton spaniel at the table to your left)

Except if you are in a simple bar/cafe, folks attired in swooshy athletic shoes, baseball hats, gaudy tee-shirts, or shorts of any kind are not apt to warm a waiter’s or le patron’s heart, and they will (whether they notice or not) cause at least some local customers to roll their eyes. When in a nicer bistro or restaurant, you will almost always "blend in" if you happend to be wearing neutral tones, beiges, dark colors, or simple black. Women would do well to learn the French technique of tying a scarf just so, and leave gaudy jewelry in the hotel. You will know that you’ve succeeded in blending in when, on your way to dinner, a Parisian stops you on the street to ask you directions, or for the time — possibly the only two permissible questions to ask strangers in public places, by the way.

[Cameras, guidebooks and cell phones: Hide away your camera and large guidebooks, and avoid using a fanny-pack. (Side benefit: this decreases your chances of being pick pocketed on or near the Métro.) Your cell phone, discreetly placed to the side, on the table, is one accessory that will make you appear Parisian. For better or worse, cell phones are everywhere. But for some non-European travelers it may be an empty prop — many U.S. cell phones don’t work in Europe, although that is changing. (We often use an international phone with an inexpensive SIM card from Telestial, although lately we've just been using iPhones — but beware of huge roaming charges.)]

Even properly attired patrons may draw unsolicited attention to themselves if they use their normal speaking volume. Notice that the pleasant ambient murmur of local voices in a Paris restaurant is considerably lower in volume than in most American restaurants. The French easily achieve privacy and intimacy in crowded restaurants, many of which have very closely placed tables, by speaking softly. Speaking or laughing too loudly is viewed as an intrusion on other patrons’ dining pleasure — and even vulgar.

Although the sight of a dog at the table next to you may trigger an urge to gawk or point, take it in stride. Dogs are welcome in many restaurants and besides, the French love them: there are more canines in Paris than children. The pooch sitting quietly on the society matron’s lap, or snoozing at the foot of a laborer, or poking his nose out discreetly from the tablecloth of the family beside you, is just another family member that goes everywhere they do. The good news: you can assume that at least the dog won’t smoke! (Although one can never be too sure: a well-known brasserie in the 1rst arrondissement is named Au Chien qui Fume — “The Dog That Smokes.”) Speaking of smoking — the smoking ban that commenced January 2008 is widely successful and compliance is excellent; but the downside is that it's often smoky outside, at sidewalk and open air tables.

Fourth — Expect to stay a while

A typical restaurant lunch or dinner is three courses: an entrée (that’s a starter, not the main course), a plat principal (that's the main dish), and a dessert. One of the beautiful things about traditional French dining is that it is a leisurely ritual, a time for conversation and reflection, and not just a fueling stop. On top of that, realize that food and dining is a well-known French obsession. Mealtime is often the most important, and enjoyable, part of the day, and the French have no desire to truncate the experience. So count on approximately one and-a-half to two hours for lunch, and two-and-a half to three hours for dinner. (Café or brasserie dining is less structured — see accompanying box.)

[Cafés and brasseries: These less formal establishments are especially handy for off-hours dining. One is not expected to order the traditional three-course menu. A coffee or snack consumed standing at le zinc (a.k.a. le comptoir — the counter) of a café/bar will cost less than if you order the same at an interior table. The cost is highest if your table is in the café’s prime territoire, the terrace. It’s perfectly acceptable to nurse your coffee or beer for hours as you watch the world go by and read your folded Le Monde or International Herald Tribune — or, perhaps less elegantly, as you peruse either on your iPhone.]

Although the dining experience is destined to be leisurely and drawn out, the ordering process is not. The establishment’s carte, listing its offerings, is, by law, posted outside the front door. This provides time to preview the menu and take out your Marling Menu Master in order to translate unfamiliar terms. (Most recently we've downloaded Patricia Wells' excellent Glossary onto our iPhone, where we now have it available, without needing access to the internet, on our "favorites" on dropbox.com — all of this is free.) Parisians usually don’t take a long time to order after being seated — they’ve probably eaten there before, several times, and know exactly what they want — and your waiter may become frustrated if you have to keep asking for multiple translations of items or yet another “deux minutes, s’il vous plaît.” On the other hand, if you’re really having difficulty (either deciphering the carte, or simply deciding), you can buy time by ordering an apéritif, or some wine.

Fifth — Forge ahead and speak your faulty French, and be careful with your hands
More often than not, waiters appreciate the fact that you’re making an effort. Whatever you do, never begin by speaking English first. (The same applies at hotel reception desks and shops.) If necessary, follow your “bonjour” or “bonsoir madame/monsieur” with a hopeful look and slightly apologetic, “Parlez-vous anglais?” The answer probably will be “Yes”; if not, the waiter likely will try to fetch someone who does; and if that fails, well, you are in France after all — wing it.

Be careful with sign language. If you attempt to underscore your order of “deux” glasses of vin blanc by the typical American convention of making a “V” with your middle and index fingers, you may well get three glasses instead of two: the French count on their hands starting with the thumb, not with the index finger. So for the sign for “two,” hold up only your thumb and index finger. While on the subject of hands, we've been advised to keep them on the table at all times — and not allow them to slip onto your lap, or anyone else’s.

Sixth — Order wine and a bottled water, or a carafe of tap water
In 1825, Brillat-Savarin (in La physiologie du goût — The Physiology of Taste), asserted, “Un bon repas favorise la conversation; un bon vin lui donne l’esprit”: A good meal encourages conversation; a good wine makes it spirited. In Paris today, this generally remains as true and guiding a principle as it was 175 years ago.

Normalement, the house rouge or blanc (both widely served by the glass, or in various-sized carafes) is just fine, and usually a bargain. Otherwise, order from the carte de vins (wine list). Except for swish upper range restaurants with extensive caves and sometimes sommeliers (that’s him in the black coat with tails), most restaurants offer a range of bottled wines at prices substantially lower than the often outrageous prices found on most American restaurant lists. Impress your waiter, and benefit your pocketbook, by staying away from the easy selections like Bordeaux (made from cabernet sauvignon and merlot) and white Bourgogne blanc (chardonnay) or rouge (pinot noir, which can be otherworldly, but is much more often expensive and disappointing). Instead, order the lesser-known and more characteristic regional wines. (See accompanying box.)

[Red wines: Try a Chinon or Bourgeuil (made from cabernet franc, in the Loire Valley); a côtes-du-Rhône (made from grenache, syrah, carignon, cinsaut, and mourvèdre, in the southern Rhône valley); a dark and cool Cahors (made from malbec, a.k.a Auxerrois, near the river Lot in the southwest); a Gaillac (made from rare indigenous varietals such as duras and brocol, and other more common varietals such as cabernet franc and merlot, in the southwest’s Tarn département); an appellation-designated Beaujolais (made from gamay, in southern Bourgogne (Burgundy), just above Lyon); or a pleasant and light pinot noir from the Sancerre region.
White and rosé wines: Try a true dry riesling or pinot blanc from Alsace; a chasselas from the high alps of the Haute-Savoie near Lake Geneva; or a Sancerre (made from sauvignon blanc) or bone-dry muscadet (perfect with fresh shellfish), both from the Loire. A dry Bandol rosé from Provence is always a beautiful and reliable choice.]

Bottled waters — eau minérale — present a choice between eau avec gaz (a.k.a. gazeuse, carbonated water) and eau nature (or “sans gaz,” “non-gazeuse,” or plate i.e., “flat” or still water). In the first category, a good choice is the French brand Badoit — its green labeled offering has light bubbles that go well with food, it’s easy to pronounce (“bad-wah”), and ordering it makes you look like you know what you’re doing. Similar to Badoit, and perhaps a bit finer, is Chateldon, from the Auvergne region. (You may, however, be offered instead an Italian water, San Pelegrino, the gazeuse that’s showing up in many Paris restaurants.) For non-carbonated bottled water, order Vittel, Contrex, or Evian. It’s perfectly acceptable, and safe, alternatively or additionally, to order tap water (eau du robinet), which will come in a carafe (ask for “une carafe d’eau” or if you want it cold, “bien fraîche”). Ice water is rarely served, but if you need it, ask for eau glacée, or glaçons (ice cubes).

Asking for “une bière” gets you bottled beer; requesting “un demi-bière” is tap beer. Neither is traditionally served at dinner, except in brasseries. It is not customary to order a soft or cola drink with dinner, and we advise against it. Such sweet tastes generally do not go well with foods on offer. If a table companion nevertheless orders a Coke, observe your waiter’s expression . . . .

Seventh — Understand the difference between “le menu” and “la carte,” and be careful about splitting
La carte is the written listing of what the establishment serves. Le menu, by contrast, which may be called the formule, is a combo meal: first course (entrée), second course (plat principal) and sometimes dessert, offered as a package for a set price (le menu fixe), and often the best deal in the house (although the mode now in Paris is a choice between entrée and plat principal or a plat principal and dessert, for one price). In Paris, or a city, le menu may offer a couple choices for each course. But in the countryside, le menu might be a fixed deal with no choices for each course. So, if you are asked if you want “le menu,” and you answer “oui,” you have just ordered the two or three-course offering of the day! Unless you want to do that, make sure you get, and order from, the carte. (Substitutions are seldom allowed when ordering le menu, unless, of course, the menu offers options in the first place.)

In nicer places, more than one menu will be offered — there may be a tasting menu (menu de dégustation) or a gourmet menu (menu gastronomique), or both. These menus, designed to show off the chef’s specialties and creative powers, may be more pricey. When dining as a couple, it’s fun to order one regular menu and one of the specialty menus, so as to sample a broader range of the establishment’s offerings.

Finally, regarding splitting dishes: If you order from the carte, splitting a starter (entrée), cheese, or dessert is usually quite acceptable. Ask for "deux cuillères" — two spoons. Splitting a plat (main course) can be quite problematic, but an appropriate smile and a good attitude will take you far. You can usually split a plat (or even an entire single "menu") with no worry when sitting at the bar — if the place has one; that can come in handy if you’ve had a huge lunch earlier in the day.

[It's also difficult to split a bill: When the tab arrives, your waiter may refuse to make out “separate checks.” Not a happy development for business diners.]

Eighth — Sit back and let your taste buds be “amused” — and don’t expect salad with, or before, your main course
If you are in an upscale place that has (or has sights on) a Michelin star, you’ll likely be started with a complimentary gift from the kitchen, an amuse-bouche or an amuse-gueule — a bite-sized savory, a canapé, designed to whet the appetite or “amuse” your mouth and taste buds.

In lesser places (for us, most of the time), you’ll be quite content with the basket of freshly cut bread, often a baguette, but sometimes a specialty loaf or combination of breads. Beurre (butter) is not commonly served except on request. Often (and always, in a café or brasserie), a strong Dijon mustard will be on the table. If it isn’t, ask for it. A nice dab is meant to be spooned onto the side of the plate to be eaten with meats.

[Salads: If a salade verte (green salad) is desired, order it when you receive your plat principal, and it will be served after completion of that course. (Note that a simple green salad is almost always available, even though not listed on the carte. Just ask for it.) Other, more substantial salads that include meats, cheeses, and nuts, etc., will be listed on the carte, as entrées or as complete meals. Small green salads are served along with quiche, or fish, but only as an accompaniment, not a separate course, and never as a first course.]

Finally, look at the entire experience as an opportunity to be adventurous. The French have learned to make good use of many animal parts that, in other countries, are consumed unknowingly and only in sausages and other lesser forms of tubular foods. Sometimes it’s best not to use a menu translator, and just enjoy what you are offered, knowing that if it’s being served, you can rest assured that millions of Frenchmen have given it their blessing. Sorry Mr. Ed, but we’ve found that cheval (horse), served very rare, is both pleasant and sweet.

[“Doggy bags”: The French love their dogs, but they don’t ask to take home left-over portions of meals, either for their pooches or for themselves. If you ask to pack up part of your meal, you’ll probably cause a scene, and may be told you are not in a take-away establishment.]

Ninth — Did someone say cheese?

Just when you think you’ve done well and have earned your dessert, you learn that, for the real heroes at your table, there’s an optional additional course: le fromage. Some regard this part of the meal as a reward. The cheese cart or plateau (tray) will be brought to your table. “Would you like some regional cheeses?” Although the cart may have twenty offerings, you are expected to select only three, possibly four. Depending on the establishment and your waiter, the portions that will be cut for you after you point out your choices may be enormous or they may be minuscule. Monitor and adjust your order accordingly. At this stage of the meal, we typically order only one serving, which we split between us.

If the cheese that you select is presented to you in a wedge, eat it by cutting along the side of the wedge — don’t chop off the “nose.” (This convention applies when you are sharing a single wedge with others; because the cheese is best at that center area, it's considered rude to hog that part.) More bread will be brought for the cheese course (and sometimes butter as well), but make sure that you have sufficient wine to drink with the cheese. If you’ve miscalculated and have run out of wine at this point, don’t be surprised if (as once happened to friends we were dining with) a nearby customer intervenes and tells you that you cannot possibly enjoy the cheese without wine. And he will be correct: wine, at this stage, is essential: it cuts the richness of the fromage and, aficionados point out, must be sipped while the cheese is in the mouth. So order another glass, and, as you enjoy your vacherin des bauges, bleu de termignon, or cantal, consider skipping the dessert.

[Fruit course: Sometimes a fresh fruit course (complete with cutlery for peeling, etc.) will be offered after, or in lieu of, the cheese course.]

Tenth — Dessert, and, finally . . . le café

If you’ve taken the cheese course, and now feel that you should pass on dessert, you will be excused. But if you’ve ordered a menu that provides a dessert with your meal, you might as well partake. Standards to look for are babas au rhum (small leavened dough cakes soaked in rum-flavored syrup), crème brulée, various crêpes, and profiteroles au chocolat (small custard-filled cream puffs with chocolate sauce). Keep an eye out for the house chocolate cake — a sinful dark concoction often served with a vanilla-y crème anglaise.

Not until (or in some cases after) the dessert course (or, after the cheese course, if you skip dessert) are you allowed to have coffee. If you ask for coffee before dessert, your waiter likely will hold the order until you have finished the main part of your meal. And even then, if you order the wrong style of coffee for the time of day, your waiter may not bring it at all: cappuccino and other any coffees with milk or cream (like café au lait) are reserved for breakfast or served only in the afternoon. Not only will asking for one after dinner blow your cover, but the creaminess of the coffee will mask and spoil everything that went before.

Whether labeled café, café espresso, or café express, these terms all mean one thing: strong espresso, served in a small saucered cup with a tiny spoon for stirring in sugar. If you want something like “American” coffee, ask for café allongé — and you will be brought a large cup of lighter coffee elongated with water. (The other, less traditional, and more patronizing term for this is “café américan.”) Black coffee is café nature. Coffee with cream is café crème. Decaffeinated coffee is a “déca,” or café sans caféine, and is widely available. In upscale places, chocolate truffles, mini-madeleines or other sweets may appear when the coffee is brought out, and are a complimentary, elegant touch.

[The noisette: If you’re dying for an after-dinner café crème fix no matter what, try a café noisette (simply “une noisette” to locals and those in the know). It’s an espresso served in a small cup with a dash of cream added. Sometimes the cream is served on the side. Those familiar with Spain will instantly recognize it as a café cortado.]

Eleventh — The digestif
After a three hour meal, you may find yourself a bit overly sated. When a waiter overheard us discussing this condition one evening, he advised us to have a digestif, one of France’s most noble inventions. These after-dinner liqueurs — Cognac, Armagnac (brandy), Calvados (made from apples from Normandy), Porto, or an eau-de-vie (various clear fruit spirits), among many others — are said to stimulate digestion. “Oh sure,” we thought, just what we need after a substantial dinner and numerous glasses of wine. But he was right. We don’t do it often but every once-in-a-while, a good digestif is just the ticket.

Twelfth — Pay, tip (or not), and depart in style
In some places, if you don’t ask for the bill (“l’addition, s’il vous plaît”), you may sit there for an hour before it finally arrives. It is considered rude to present the tab without being requested to do so. (In fact, the table will not even be cleared of your empty glasses; to do so would suggest that you should leave.)

When your accounting finally is presented, know that unlike in some countries, (including the United States), where waiters depend on tips, in France, the waiter’s payment for “service” is almost always incorporated into the grand total. (The bottom of the carte will state “service compris” — service included.) Does this mean you shouldn’t tip? Not necessarily. . . . (See accompanying box.)

[Tipping: Most Parisians don’t leave a tip on top of the grand total. Others insist it’s customary — but only "pièces jaunes," small change. Still, some guidebooks authoritatively recommend leaving an additional five to ten percent. From our experience, this simply is not done. We leave just a euro or two if the service was especially good. (Doing so can be — but is not always — in your best interest if there’s a chance you’ll soon return soon.) Also, or alternatively, you might ask your waiter to convey to the Chef that you enjoyed the meal. (If you pay by credit card, always provide any tip in cash — but just leave it, don’t hand it to your waiter).]

Finally, if you’ve enjoyed your dining experience, let the waiter and host know, and when you stand to depart, take the restaurant’s business card, shake hands, and say “au revoir” (followed, of course, by “monsieur” or “madame”). If you return within a few days, your follow-up visit may be even better.

If you happen to be staying in a hotel or apartment in the vicinity of the restaurant, you may, as we do, prefer to walk back “home.” The amble aids digestion as we discuss the evening, observe the city at night, and prepare for the next day — when it’s time to start over.

[The long walk home: After a long, late dinner, we find a kinship with the observation of A.J. Liebling, who wrote: “Pedestrianism was always my balance for voracity; they were countervailing joys. Walking, I consumed what I had eaten, built up an appetite for more, had noble thoughts, and spotted likely-looking restaurants.” (Between Meals — An Appetite for Paris (1959).)]